

fu 








5 *91 


t 


* 


Sil 


i 


f 

I 

V 

4 


4 ^ 

!t| 


1 




I 

i 

I 

I* 


\ uw 

? 




h 


1 


I 






i 


* 

!* 


t 

l 

t 


s 

1 

hi* 


r 

if 

i 


i 

».* 

1 #' 

i 


«*4 

<Pj 


4 

A 

» 




1 

tt* 




I 

W- . if 


**I 5 

&y 


as I 
»I 

37? 

Ok-1 $• 


•m 


st 


S •pi 

M 

«U»| 

1; 

UA 1 *> 


ra 

SI 


I' 


*1 • 


H***" 

. 'te * 








• J 


«.- *> V **•<>* ^ <) V ,1**/ %?> 

vr ,vGfet*. ^ a ’ .'*%&*:* ^ 

j>^ ■HMMHHIP 

; c^o * 

/ ^ ^ ^ ^ % 

^ -T^T*" yv <* 'c* 

O v ' & 0 " ° * ^b <v** .*.»•„ <£, 

° <r 'V - °' /^Jtifv. * 

* 






, „ O 


- ^ * 

* - <** o x 

* _i ’ 

% ^ 

• 


«. 

vV 

o 

*« 

V * !, • ®-» 


^ J\\ Kg' /) 

* AWVzix /// 

?7 O VP. 


r. 


o V 
>° ^ 


*- -w 


r-‘ i 

.* /% • 
.* 0«- <%> • 
0 * .•JL*». ^b 

G *j 


^0" 
H P, 


* o *■ »* >v 0 *» ^ o «. ,* a 

iff % *••'* A 0 ## ^ ^ ’fl 

V •l*®- O. <0 |*V% > V n’*®* G> ,9 



I » o 


^V 

<? vP J 

^ * 

V rf» «* '’^jZ'tS'*^ ■» 

\ *?$?' .0 

*. °o SlUrfrl* "V. 

; : 
: j.°-%. -. 

* o *0^» <> « 

» i *• ' A 0 * «> (• o ° ^ 


^ A* - 

w 




,9 j> : 

* ■& ^ 

. 0 ' '\**-'. ^»' <v <J 

k' . o w . -•%, ••*-« -A . i /1 ^ <i* 


** n* 7 > v * 

* A° 

a 0 . . * *^L% > 



* A «, *■ 

I • 0 v V ♦ j 

vv 




’*p. v*^ * 

^ <& * 
: ^<3 

aV-^, *. 

•<& * 



* c 5 > 

* «? ^ 

4 -a v ci» ’*" 

'° • * * *b + /T 1 s 5 A 

• Q * 6 0 " ° * f b • »• # * ,* . 

^ C • c^V..^_ O * *£ 

0/K ” r oK V-o 


* ^ *♦ ’ 


* ^ 



: 

4 ,j«- ^ « 

^HO 

v. 0 




%.‘ 7 ^ 7 *V > 


C\ a 0 . 

•• V cF *' J 

“ °o. V 

. ** v \ •. 




v' V .•••• '♦© *”' 0 f | 

•» V <-'»’ . 

- .. - 

' <f "\ ‘•W&s * 

HU c° ^ ,•“*♦ ^ 

'-#v^ <y_<^ V 




•. <J 


^ ° 


X c V, 

4 .°° V'*^>*y-‘ °o ; ‘^rrv-’Vo ....... 

% <? *>vVa % ^ *vsfty. A V .1 

j -•• a v y '.".** A <* *»..?• ,C> ^ 

^ ,0 ^O, A«-' ,.-■•. <^ 0 ^ C 

* 71a a ^ « '-'•N'OA'i^ * ^ «N ‘ 4 0?if-’/y-> * ry- 0 • 

? °<* f ^ • 




o w ^ 


VJ 

^ OS 








- 


.0 *. j o a t o * !r , * .0 ' ♦ 

' \ *?* % V N . • •. “V / .VV-. % 

* \/ m i'u v* .**&& \/ .••«&••. ♦< 

kv. v ^ % --Nsisv «? 



• 0>T. ". 

‘ ♦♦ ^ 



* A <s <G V A3 A «\ '<>.»• G v 

, v < » n ■ o " o - Xi ^ i « 0 ^ (< -‘ 

A .Vv7^’ '%- c 'leSSWV ^> -4* .v,.??>:4 * <. C -V 

> :gm^ ^ :#M: *bA ;£fe* '**<>« :4 




• *“♦, \\* K V 

cL- •* Xy^ 5 * <» * 

% *•"• °** # 
v ♦ I • ° 


% ^ 


V. ** A* 
W _• 



/f 

4 » 

0 ‘ 6 0 " • ♦ ^b ft k * * X* 

' '* < ^* b v ^ :fikL\ ’W 


* ^ 

J» « ft O * 

A - V ♦.To 5 .**■ o . 

0 ■ ,|V», ■> V s .•- 'C' 

V ,'SfflSr. t<. a .’ A \Vr *<& 

W * -s ( \Vg&/A . 






A * 

* *? ^ • 

<G V \d *^ 7 .• * A 

0^ 6 •* • ♦ **o A V • 

C ° ^ ft + > 



* < ~ //y^r , fc° ^ •' Xl « ^ * i 0 ^ 

°^. **«’* f C ^ • o« ^ •’•O* A° * 

, a 0 **V> > v # * • °* 7 c\ *$)* »VV!t* X 

• -A . a*® * 1 T< tft* ,A. a, "'r* * .*—' -** ^ 

\ &<£* • /'{-i:^ t • { vO,\x-v.,/^ A v 

r A <* ♦•#»• «G^ o» “'/tvT* A <* 'o.* 1 * «Cr 

A ^ .o"' o°'*« ; b a^ .‘ *« .0^ o ( 

^ 4*. -oT :, 

♦ T v A■’♦..♦•* A** 

♦ > *‘ ,# °- A- <C |^V*% > N' # * * C\ 

\ %<? :M%- "\<? «'/ • ’*: %/' Mftt ^ 

.vV^ 


p- /x w/ , ^ A. ,/X *-W A^ 


* 


%'•< 

\\ % </'?&*X v v •’ 








*•",1* a°" ^ % 

<v • ♦ • * <> 

V A* . ♦- 

4’- ^ ♦:vW* ^ ^ *A. >,* ♦* ^ A 

> A <>'♦»* ,C V T3 *vJvT* A <. ^0*1* G 

• *' * ♦ • • " • ♦ ^o • k 1 • ♦ r 0r 





o_ 


♦ ~0 


:> 

* ^ 






































































































































NOTES 


OF A 

TRIP AROUND THE WORLD 

IN 

1894 AND 189^. 


CHARLES PARSONS 


OF 


ST. LOUIS. 



FOR PRIVATE CIRCULATION ONLY. 


Grorgr D. Barnard & Co., 

PRINTERS AND ENGRAVERS, 

St. Louis. 


G44- 0 


’opyriglited, isiw;, by Charles Parsons, 
St. Louis, Mo. 





Tills LITTLE HOOK IS KKSl*K<TFirLLY 


DEDICATED TO THK 

MlSSorill ( '().MMANDERY OF THK MILITARY ORDER 

-OF THK- 

Loyal Leoion of thk Exited States 

WITIIOI T WHOSE SERVICES, 'I ITOliTKH BY THK1K FKI.I.oVV 
OFFICERS AND THK ORAND ARNH OF CNION SOLDIERS. 
THROCOII FOl’l! YEARS OF BLOODY STRIFE. 

WE WOCI.D NOT NOW HAVE A NATIONAL 
EXISTENCE OR SEE THE BANNER OF 
THE I'N ION FLO ATI NO ON LAND 
AND SEA TO PROTECT I S 
ON OCR TRAVELS. 

MY COMPANION 

CHARLES PARSONS, 

Mvt. ML Col. r. S. V. 




I COMMENCED to write these notes to while 
away the idle hours on board ship, and with¬ 
out a thought of ever printing them ; nor should I 
do so now except for the urgent solicitation of 
one of my most intimate iind valued companions, 
lie thought they would be read with interest by 
my friends, and it is only for such they are 
intended. I hope he will not be found to have 
erred. They are not written for the general 
public or for sale. 

I am indebted to my nephew, Charles Parsons 
Pettus, for many of the photographs from which 
the engravings in the book are copied. 







List of Illustrations. 


\\\\\\\\\w 


(iopura ok Hindoo Temple, Southern India. -Frontispiece. 

OPPOSITE 
PA OK. 


Lantern Festival, Yokohama_ 

IN Jl NRIKISHAS_ 

Village of Gifuken afteii the Earthquake.-. 

A Japanese Fruit Shop_ 

Kago Traveling on the Tokaiijo. 

Fujiyama_ 

The Castle at Nagoya_ 

Spectacle Bridge, Kyoto_ 

Dai Butsu Temple, Xara__ 

1 Iotel, IIakone_ 

Granite Torii, Kamakura_ 

Hong Kong_ _ 

IIong Kong and Shanghai Bank, Hong Kong . 

Canal and House Boats, Canton_ 

Examination Hall, Canton- 

Flower Pagoda, Canton- 

Malay Village_ 

Native Boys—Kandy, Ceylon_ 

Bamboos, Peredeniya_ 

Talipot Palm in Blossom _ 

Tank of the Golden Lilies, Madura_ 

Pumping Water, Madura_ _ 

Palace of Tiramula Nayak, Madura_ 

Natives, Madura- 

Corridor of Temple, Southern India- 

Bengal Village- 

Hindoo Girl - 

Banian Tree, Calcutta--- 

Gathering Tea, Darjeeling_ 


. 4 
. 6 
_ 10 
- 12 
. 10 
. 18 
. 20 
. 24 
_ 26 
_ 80 
_ 84 
. 38 
. 42 
- 44 
. 46 
48 
. 82 
_ 54 
_ 56 
. 58 
60 


62 

64 

66 

68 

70 

72 

74 



































List of Illustrations. 

orrosiTK 

I’ACK. 

Kinchinjanga Range from Darjeeling__ 76 

Natives of Bhutan _ 76 

Hindoo Holy Man_ SO 

Burning the Dead at Benares_82 

Bathing Ghat, Benares_ _ _ 84 

Golden Temple and Well of Knowledge, Benares_80 

Upper Part of Tomb of I’timadu-Daulah, Agra_88 

Jumma Musjid, Agra-00 

Delhi Gate of Fort, Agra_ 02 

Tomb of I’timadu-Daulah, Agra_04 

The Taj Mahal, Agra_ 00 

The Panch Maiial, Futtehpore Sikra__08 

Marble Screen, Queen’s Apartments, Delhi_ 100 

Praying at the Jumma Musjid, Delhi_102 

Tomb of Emperor Humayun, Delhi-104 

Mollah of Jumma Musjid, Lahore_100 

Golden Temple, Amritsar-110 

Koutub Minar, Delhi-114 

Winds Palace, Jeypore_110 

Ri ding re> Amber_118 

Entrance to Jain Temple- 120 

Hindoo Wedding Procession, Delhi- 122 

Bullock (’art_124 

< ; R<>up OF M \ II K VITAS - 1 26 

Gave Temple of Elepiianta-128 

Tower of Silence, Bombay _130 

Railway Station, Bombay- 132 

Group of Parsees-134 

English Camel Troop in Egypt-142 

Cleopatra, at Dendereh- - - -148 

Kiosk at Phil.e called Pharaoh’s Bed -150 

Bisiiarin Warriors - 152 

Reposing Room after Bath, Alhambra-166 

Tomb ok Ferdinand and Isabella, Granada-168 




























































































Notes of a Trip flroupd the World 


I. 

We left San Francisco on the Steamer Belgic. 
Captain Walker, at three o’clock in the afternoon 
of November loth, 1894, slowly crawled away 
from the dock and moved down the harbor by the 
city, the forts and light house, and finally out of 
the so-called Golden Gate, leaving soon the rocks 
on which the sea lions disport themselves, Sutro’s 
Garden and all America behind; we passed the Farrel- 
lone Islands, which, thirty miles out, serve the pur¬ 
pose of supporting a light house, and are generally 
the first intimation of America to the Asiatic mariner. 
But soon we found that the ship was not as stable 
as the land, and that night was very uncomforta¬ 
ble to us fresh-water voyagers, but when morning 
dawned we found things a little easier and soon 
got our sea legs on and during the remainder of the 
voyage of eighteen days and over, (counting one 
as lost in our crossing the 180th meridian) we 



2 


A TRIP AROUND TH K WORLD. 


were all ready for our three daily meals as our 
colored American steward served them up for us. 

Soon after noon on the 3rd day of December, we 
saw, looming up high in the air in the distance, 
more than a hundred miles away, the silvery cone 
of the sacred mountain, Fujiyama; it seemed to 
us at first a shining cloud, so bright and white 
was it away off in the sky. 

I can readily see why the Japanese so love 
the view of this mountain, rising as it does almost 
directly from the sea, its 12,375 feet visible to 
millions of the people; first in the morning sun and 
reflecting its lovely pink rays at night as they see 
its last and highest point fade away from view 
with the declining day, it is something to love if 
not worship. 

We slowly neared the land, passed Cape King 
and so on; entering the Bay of Yeddo, passed up 
until the captain deemed it unsafe to go further, as 
we had no notice of the removal of the torpedoes 
from the harbor. Very early in the morning, 
however, we raised our anchor and soon dropped 
it again in the harbor of Yokohama. I found, 
since I was here, a long sea-wall had been built to 
ward off the waves which roll into the small bay 
from the larger bay of Yeddo, and a very pleasant 
thing it is to the persons wanting to board a steamer 















































































YOKOHAMA. 


3 


in a rough day. We found the air crisp and cool, 
but not uncomfortable, just sharp enough to give a 
zest to appetite and to make exercise desirable and 
pleasant. 

We passed the site of my old hotel, the Inter¬ 
national, where I stopped in 1876, and which had 
been burned down, and went to the Grand, which 
is very much enlarged since I was there, and 
is one of the finest and most comfortable hotels in 
the East—I think the best. It is, like a large part 
of all business enterprises in the East, in the 
hands of a company of limited liability. It is 
under the management of Mr. Louis Eppinger, 
one of the children of Israel who wandered off 
here from Greenville, Mississippi, lie apparently 
takes great delight in his vocation, has good 
cooks and waiters and is omnipresent to see that 
they do their duty; is constantly up from six o’clock 
in the morning until the lone hours, and makes a 
pleasant home for the traveller. 

I was surprised to see how much the town had 
grown in nineteen years, the streets have extended 
very greatly, and much land that was fields in cul¬ 
tivation in 1876 is now covered with houses; the 
whole country has increased more than twenty per 
cent—many millions of people—and, considering 
the smallness of the territory, it is wonderful how 


4 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


they all live; it is only from the simplicity of their 
tastes and the fact that they eat no meat; rice, 
fish and vegetables satisfy them, with the always 
to be seen tea-pot and pipe. 

Think of 40,000,000 of people with only 143,- 
000 square miles of territory, and one-third of that 
mountain or water. It must be borne in mind that 
the ocean contributes very largely to their food 
supply; fish is a very great item, and they con¬ 
sume much edible seaweed. It is to be hoped they 
will never get to want the various things which 
make up our list of life’s necessities—they can not 
afford them. 

Almost all the Americans who were here in 
187(5 are gone; I found only Dr. Stuart Eldridge 
and Mr. Hepburn ; many have gone home ; some are 
dead. We were pleasantly entertained by Dr. E. 
and his charming wife and daughters, the latter 
now grown to womanhood. Gen. Grant made but 
one unofficial visit in Japan and that was on Dr. 
Eldridge, who was for a little while, a surgeon 
officer under his direct command in the war in 
the West. The crowd that surrounded his house, 
while the General was there, was remarkable. 
The servants approached him crouching as they 
did to the Mikado and great Daimios in olden 
times. Dr. E. says the poor and the rich, 


IN JIXRIKSHAS. 




















GENERAL GRANT IN JAPAN. 


5 


the noble and t the peasant alike paid tribute 
to the great American who had commanded more 
actual soldiers, fit for war, and in the field, 
than any ancient or modern warrior, for the tales 
of the millions of Xerxes and other ancients are as 
mythical as the stories of the Norse gods. No 
armies like their alleged ones could have lived a week 
in the countries they were in for want of food. The 
General lived in a palace and was provided with 
everything that he could desire while there—no 
prince visiting Japan ever had such great honors 
paid him as those thus tendered our ex-President. 
This was very agreeable, but it is very unpleasant 
for us to see so few of our country’s flags floating 
in the breeze at the mast-heads of ships in the 
East; in old times before the war, the commerce 
of the East was carried to and from the shores in 
American vessels, and the clipper ships from Bos¬ 
ton, Salem, Baltimore and other American ports 
were seen on every sea, but the war commenced the 
change, and the abandonment of wooden for iron 
ships, in which, for so many years, England has 
been the cheaper market for construction, with the 
cheapened cost of running steam vessels has 
almost destroyed our foreign shipping trade. 
Besides we have to compete with ships heavily 
subsidised by European Governments, English, 


6 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


French, Germans and Austrians pay much greater 
sums for mail carriage than we; it is impossi¬ 
ble to conduct a business in competition with 
other nations, thus handicapped; surely we can 
afford to build up our commerce by as liberal 
appropriations as other nations make to their 
merchant marine. England grows rich on what 
we thus throw away. # 

I paid a visit to Tokyo and saw Mr. Dun, our 
minister, he was here in 1876, up at Hokaido, 
trying to teach the Japanese agriculture according 
to American methods—about as silly an effort as 
possible. Hand labor being so cheap, say for 6 or 8 
cents a day, and rice the greatest crop, with many 
of the plats of ground twenty feet square, it 
was a waste of time and money; to be the 
minister of the United States pays better and 
is more agreeable. I was rather surprised that 
Mr. Dun was in favor of the new treaties re¬ 
cently made with Japan, by terms of which the Con¬ 
sular Courts will be abolished, and Americans and 
other foreigners will be tried before Japanese judges 
in their courts. Most of the European residents are 
opposed to it, and think a foreigner will not get 
justice if his opponent is a native. I found great 
opposition to it with them all, save Messrs. Dun 
and Jaudon, both of whom have native wives, and 


















WAR CELEBRATION AT TOKYO. 7 

each a daughter. Mr. Jaudon was also here in 
1876, in the Japanese State Department as he is 
now, and is still living at Tokyo. I asked him if 
he liked the country, “ Yes,” he said, “except the 
earthquakes and the typhoons, these are very un¬ 
pleasant.” His father was the cashier of the old 
United States Bank in the days of Nick Biddle. 

On Sunday, the 9th, we attended a great 

festival given at Tokyo in Ueno Park, in 

celebration of the victories over the Chinese. 

I think it was also in part to keep up the war 

feeling, and, also to raise money for hospital 

use. There were some 50,000 nice lunches 

prepared and given to each person who had a 

ticket and asked for it, the tickets costing half 

a yen (50 cents in silver). They were wonderfully 

nice and neatly put up, consisting of rice, fish, 

daikon (a sort of radish) and an appetizing sauce. 

No people but the Hollanders are as neat in their 

houses as these. Their floors, when of wood, are 

clean and shining, and equally neat when of 

matting, their dishes are the same. These lunches 

were put up in new little pine boxes, just as 

clean as if freshly sawed from the tree; one 

might have eaten from the cover as well as 
© 

from a plate. There was also given a pint bottle 
of sake. 


8 


A TRIP AROUND THE AVORLD. 


The entertainments consisted, first, of a grand 
reception and speeches to the Prince Imperial; 
vve waited in front of the building made for this 
function awhile and finally tired out, went to the 
fine restaurant on the hill above. Soon a grand 
mass for the souls of the dead Avas performed 
near there, in the open air by a vast number of 
Buddhist priests, all in gorgeous silk robes; then 
there were wrestling matches, singing parties in 
the old manner and dress, and dancing; there 
Avere also native fire Avorks for the day time, mak¬ 
ing fantastic smoke figures in the air when they 
broke; then in the evening there were other 
fireAVorks and an attack on two Chinese ships pre¬ 
pared for the occasion and lying in a very large 
pond in front. Of course, they Avere easily cap¬ 
tured, the Chinese flag pulled down and their OAvn 
raised, after which, the ship went up in a blaze of 
supposed glory with a grand explosion. 

It was estimated that not less than 150,000 peo¬ 
ple were there and I do not doubt it. After the last 
act they all Avent home Avithout noise, drunkenness 
or fighting. Their sake (rice brandy) is not very 
intoxicating. I do not knoAv of any so-called civilized 
people where such a crowd could have spent a day 
Avith such fine order. I heard some pickpockets 
were arrested but saw nothing disagreeable. 

O O 


NIK KO. 


9 


Speaking of sake, it tastes just about as bad as 
whisky, though far less pungent; it takes a great 
deal to produce intoxication and is almost like 
water in color, is cheap, and is generally drank 
warm. 

On the next morning we went off early to 
Nikko, ninety miles, by rail. This is the celebrated 
place where are buried two of the greatest Sho¬ 
guns or Tycoons as we call them—Ieyasu and 
Iemitsu. Our route was up into the mountains, 
and we passed through many wheat patches and 
rice fields; the latter was all gathered and the 
former looked green and flourishing. They stack 
the rice on poles in small quantities, a regular 
miniature stack, and it stands nicely in waiting for 
the threshing and hulling. We crossed the Imaichi 
road, a continuation of the great Tokaido, with its 
grand cryptomeria trees, some of them many cen¬ 
turies old. The Tokaido is a grand capital 
road, and runs some hundreds of miles away 
to Kyoto, and is the only real road in Japan, 
others are mere narrow paths from four 
to six feet wide. Land is too valuable to waste in 
unnecessary roads. 

We had a great rain at Nikko, where we 
arrived about two o’clock in the afternoon, and 
were glad to get into covered jinrikishas and ride 


10 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


to the Kanaya Hotel, a very pleasant place, 
well kept, where we had good fare, nice rooms 
with fires and the funniest foot warming jugs with 
four little bits of feet each, to go to sleep with, 
they were very comfortable up there in the moun¬ 
tains, we also found good coffee, pure water and 
nice wine—we blessed the proprietor. At one 
side is a genuine Japanese part of the establish¬ 
ment, quite differently arranged from our Euro¬ 
pean part; our guide had a room there. Our 
rooms were beautifully located, looking out on a 
roaring mountain stream below, and to the snow 
covered peaks that towered above us, also over¬ 
looking the sacred bridge, over which no one goes 
but the Mikado. He directed that it be opened 
for General Grant, but the General declined to have 
the rule broken in his behalf, and went by the 
common bridge. How it did pour that night and 
the next morning! We went out after lunch into 
the shops, it is as well provided with these as our 
Saratoga, they sell many sorts of curios, skins of 
various animals, etc. We got a fine and very 
large black bear skin and a very curiously colored 
rabbit skin. They are not very dear there if one 
bargains well, but the bargaining is the great trouble 
in Japan, China and all through the East. Unless 
one has plenty of time and is well posted he is 


rIOHS vUilHd aSHNVdVf V 




























SHOPPING. 


11 


sure to pay too much, almost all tourists pay 
much more than a fair price. The foreign 
dealers who have their agents there buy from 
25 to 50 per cent less than the traveler, but 
if you see something you like, you are apt to be 
willingly swindled. A number of the most import¬ 
ant dealers at Tokyo signed and published an 
agreement to adhere to one price, yet I purchased 
of two of them goods at a discount of near forty 
per cent, from the price demanded, and I presume 
even then I paid too much. In another case when we 
were at Nagasaki a fellow traveller offered $30 for 
some articles of tortoise shell work that they wanted 
$45 for. The man refused, I told him to leave the 
shop and go off to the ship; he did so and just 
before we were ready to sail the fellow came 
rushing on board to take the offer. It is 
very important to take good advice in the 
purchase of Japanese curios, the great majority 
of goods offered are not of a sort that one wants, 
and the lots of such goods generally brought to 
our interior cities are made to sell cheap and 
most of them are of no artistic value. Really 
good things are rare and cannot be had with- 
out the exercise of good judgment and paying well 
for them. In the morning we started out in the 
rain in jinrikishas to see the temples and tombs. 


12 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


They are placed on the mountain side among the 
ancient forests and are gorgeous in old Japanese 
ornament. They are the very finest specimens of 
old sacred architecture and decoration in the land. 
There are great flights of stone steps leading up 
to temples and tombs, and much expensive old 
bronze work. We had a sacred Shinto dance by a 
priestess for 30 cents. It was not long, but long 
enough, it was only posturing and walking around 
with a very poor accompaniment of pretended 
music, made by some attending priests or assist¬ 
ants. The greatest attraction here is the scenery, 
and old Ieyasu showed his wisdom in choosing such 
a very romantic place for his grave. Great sums 
have been spent in making the temples. There 
are Buddhist and Shinto temples both here. The 
present Mikado is a Shintoist as I suppose were all 
his ancestors, for they came from the sun goddess 
thousands of years ago, but both worships are 
equally protected. I see little devotion in the 
Shinto faith, there is much more in Buddhism. 
Almost all the forms peculiar to the latter worship, 
such as ringing of bells, bowing to the Altar, gor¬ 
geous priestly vestments, use of prayer beads, 
incense, masses, monasteries, nunneries, shaven 
heads, vigils, wayside shrines, saintly and priestly 
intercession, etc., are similar to those used by 


























TEMPLES AT NIKKO. 


13 


Catholics, who may have inherited them from the 
Buddhists of India, as Buddha was the predecessor 
of Christ (538 years. St. Francis Xavier, it is re¬ 
ported, when he first visited Japan to introduce 
Christianity was so struck by this similarity that 
he imagined the devil had taught the Buddhists 
these forms to prevent their becoming Christians. 
I cannot attempt a description of these tem¬ 
ples, their wonderful wood, bronze, gold and 
lacquer work, the beautiful paneled ceilings, 
the splendid columns, the gateway buildings rich 
with ornament, the great stone fountains made 
from a single block of granite, the great images, 
like the Gog and Magog in the London Guildhall, 
at the entrance gates, the bronze lanterns, the 

curious robes and other things shown among their 

© © 


treasures in the museum, the great stone stairway 
leading up high to the tombs, up which I could 
not have gone without aid, so long and steep were 
they. Nothing like this exists or ever will exist. 
The temples of Sliiba in Tokyo are the next tinest 
and of somewhat similar style but nothing like so 
extensive or tine. Not that I have not seen archi¬ 
tectural works more classic, in more perfect accord 
with our taste and more costly, hut then it was 
not Japanese, it was such as I am educated to see; 
this isoriginal, new, strange, peculiar, and therefore 


14 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


interesting, more especially for its manner and also 
as showing great ability and taste. It is some¬ 
thing worth seeing; I hope these people will never 
become Europeanized. I want them to adhere to 
their own artistic original ideas and taste, their old 
work and much of their modern, when they remain 
faithful to their own ways, is marvelous in style 
and execution. The sky cleared up before we 
finished our inspection and the sun came out 
bright and gave us beautiful views of the high, 
snow-clad peaks towering above us. 

But we must leave. It would have been very 
pleasant to go over to Lake Chuzenji, but we had 
not the time and at 2:30 p. m. were again on the 
train for Tokyo, leaving this beautiful lake for 
another voyage, or perhaps forever unseen by us. 
At 9 o’clock we were once more in the Imperial 
Motel, Tokyo. This is a fine edifice of most grand 
size and imposing in style, and is said to be owned 
in part by the government or the emperor; it is 
also well kept. In 1876 there was no hotel here 
kept in European style, nor could one stay here 
over night unless in his minister’s premises. Then, 
too, the public as well as private buildings were all 
of wood. Now there are grand brick edifices for 
the war, navy, state and other departments of the 
government, all built in good style, as also fine 


JAPANESE SOLDIERS. 


15 


brick houses for the heads of the departments to 
reside in, as well as large and suitable buildings 
for the Parliament. Then there was no legisla- 
tive body, but all power was vested in the Mikado, 
and his decrees were law. He has voluntarily sur¬ 
rendered much of his power and may have trouble 
to keep what he has. There is a party that 
desires more radical steps towards an unrestrained 
government, and he may have to resort to strong 
measures. I think he has gone quite far enough, 
in the direction of freedom. 

We saw many new soldiers drilling at Tokyo and 
afterwards at Nagoya and Osaka; all seemed 
strong, vigorous young men, drilled well and acted 
as if they were proud of the vocation. At Osaka 
they had a cavalry regiment; the horses were 
their small ponies, very tough, capable of living 
on poor food and standing rough usage. We 
visited the school of Mr. Isobey, a graduate of 
the Imperial University, as we had a letter to him. 
It was about eleven o’clock in the morning. He 
took us into two rooms where young men and 
boys from 14 to 16 were reciting. In one room 
they were reading American History and the 
precise point of reading was Hull’s surrender of 
Detroit to the English—curious coincidence. He 
gave us coffee and we then went to the university 


L6 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 

and made an appointment with Professor Divers, 
an Englishman, whom we met again at 2:30 p. m. 
and were kindly shown through all the great build¬ 
ings by him. There are Chemical, Philosophical, 
Civil Engineering, Mechanical, etc., etc., besides a 
fine library in which is also a large hall for students 
to sit and read in as well as for meetings, there were 
some forty or more young men reading there. 

They make their own engines for use about the 
place, have beautiful models of steamships, mer¬ 
chant and war, and can build both well. All these 
buildings (save one) were of their own erection 
and they would do credit to any country. I can¬ 
not see why they need much more aid from 
Europeans in their schools or colleges. They are 
certainly capable of taking care of themselves 
against any but European nations of the first class 
or ourselves. Tokyo is a great city with a popula¬ 
tion of 1,200,000, and worth a month’s time for 
the traveller who has leisure. We were sorry we 
did not have time to accept some invitations we 
received. 



























FUJIYAMA. 


17 


II. 

We left Tokyo next morning, I for Yokohama 
and the boys for Myenoshita and Hakone, where 
they spent the night, returning next evening. On 
the 18 th we went off on the early train for Nagoya, 
running along near the sea through rice fields and 
for a very long time under the shadow of Fuji- 
yami. The Japs sing of this mountain in poetic 
lays, write prose about it, paint it on their Kake¬ 
monos and Makemonos, fix it with never-ending 
skill and patience in their gold lacquer work and 
finally make it lasting in bronze and silver. We 
rode on and on all day along the coast, sometimes 
crossing large bays on embankments or trestles, 
and arrived at Nagoya at an early hour in the 
evening, passing as we came into town a cotton 
factory where they were all at work by artificial 
light—no eight-hour law there. Our hotel was 
comfortable as to rooms, but a poor table. 

It was kept by a native, during dinner we 
heard the rats holding carnival over our heads in 
anticipation, I suppose, of what might be left, or 
else through intoxication from the odor of our 
food, but they did not intrude on our sleeping 


18 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


apartments. After roaming about the streets a 
while, going into some shops and a bazaar, we 
found our way to rest and rising early in the 
morning rode out to the castle, to enter which we 
had passports. They would not however, allow 
the kodak inside. It is a wonderful castle, 285 
years old, the walls are fine cut granite, below and 
above, in many stories, towers the strong and mass¬ 
ive woodwork, at the extreme ends of the ridge 
pole are on each a golden Dolphin measuring 8 
feet 7 inches, and worth $180,000. They glitter 
in the sunlight and are visible all over and far be¬ 
yond the city. The view from the top is grand 
and extensive, the immediate surroundings were 
great plains and in the distance were snow-clad 
hills and mountains, toward the north more par¬ 
ticularly was the snow seen. We visited a very 
celebrated temple “Higashi Hongwanji,” the in¬ 
terior and exterior of which were very fine, and 
afterwards went over a clock factory situated near 
by, where they make very good Yankee clocks. 
The original pattern machinery came from New 
England, but now they make all for themselves. 
The pay is from 15 to 50 cents silver for eleven 
hours’ work. I cannot see why there is not in 
the future a menace to our home manufacture 
in Japanese competition, they work so cheaply, are 


CASTLE, NAGOYA. 




































































































































NAGOYA. 


19 


so painstaking and imitative, that they may yet 
buy our cotton and wool, and make up clothing 
and other things for American use, and instead 
of fearing European competition we may find our 
machinery duplicated there to produce all sorts of 
articles much cheaper than they can be made in 
Europe. On the whole Nagoya is well worth a 
visit and we might have spent another day there 
pleasantly. We left in the afternoon at four 
o’clock fcr Kyoto, where we arrived at 9:30 p. m. 
and put up at the Yaami Hotel on the hill over¬ 
looking this great and charming city. The view 
in the evening was to us very interesting. From 
our high position all the gas, electric and other 
lights shone out and made a beautiful effect. We 
were up in the morning of the 20th early and 
went out to see the town, its streets, temples, 
etc. The temples are very numerous and many of 
great size and remarkably fine; there must have 
been much money spent in building them. Just 
now one of the Shinran Shonin sect of Buddhists 
is being rebuilt, on which it is said there is being 
spent a million yen (or dollars). There are here 
two great bells over twelve feet high. We had one 
of them rung by pulling an immense beam of wood 
which is hung so that a pull backward and then 
towards the bell gives a great swing and stroke on 


20 


A TRIP AROUND THU WORLD. 


the bell which returns a very soft and melodious 
sound, much more agreeable than that produced 
by our clanging iron tongues. It is the perfection 
of melody in bell-ringing. The other bell they 
would not ring, saying it would make a great sen¬ 
sation in the city as it was to be rung only on 
special occasions. 

The Mikado’s palace was full of interest. 
There are immense halls of audience, of reception, 
of waiting, great sleeping rooms, great in size and 
multitudinous in number, and screens and shogis 
(movable partitions), painted most artistically, one 
could make alovely work which would have a great 
sale by copying them in a book like Audsley & 
Bowes’ “Keramic Arts of Japan.” The trees, 
flowers and scenery were beautifully done and the 
ceiling made in same style of decoration as the 
finest in Nikko. 

The Shogun’s Palace, to which he came in old 
times to pay a yearly honorary visit to the Mikado, 
is also very vast and interesting, and has some fine 
work similar to the other palace, though not so 
grand, but there is a lot of real gold work over 
and around the entrance that is gorgeous. 

The shops of Kyoto are interesting; more 
especially are those of the dealers in silk embroid¬ 
ery worthy of mention. They are far ahead of 

























KYOTO. 


21 


the Chinese in their designs, the latter stick to the 
old peacocks, flowers, etc., that they have made 
for so many years, the Kyoto men have a much 
more varied manner and style. They also make silk 
pictures, lovely landscapes with wonderful fidelity 
to nature, and ten feet distant so perfect is the sky, 
water, etc., no one would think them other than 
oil paintings. Kyoto is also celebrated for its 
bronze, silver, lacquer and other artistic work. 
Namikawa, the most celebrated cloisonne maker 
in the country, works there, and so quiet and 
polite, so perfectly easy and agreeable is his man¬ 
ner that you might think you were with a gentle¬ 
man of most elegant leisure. 11 is shop was as 
neat as any parlor, and the dozen men at work 
putting on the minute wires which make the cloi- 
sons (enclosures), or who were rubbing the work 
down to a uniform polish, made no noise, not one- 
half as much as two of our people would have done 
under the same circumstances. The rooms opened 
out into one of those little miniature gardens with 
its trees, lakelet and islands the Japanese know so 
well howto produce. Why cannot other people com 
bine neatness and elegant repose with the labor of 
their hands? It was the same with Nishamura’s silk 
establishment. So lovely was the view from our 
hotel over city, mountains and river that one might 


22 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


have spent weeks there, always finding something 
to interest. The boys went to the theater one 
nisht and after an hour or so sent their 
cards to the principal actor, who invited them 
behind the scenes into his room during an interim 
between acts; he presented them a nice basket of 
oranges. It is the proper thing to give a present 
of money in return, which they did. Charles S. 
Smith, of New York, had a similar interview with 
Danjuro, the greatest actor in Japan, and pre¬ 
sented him with $50. 

One night we had a dinner at a very nice Jap¬ 
anese restaurant, accompanied by music and 
dancing. I cannot say I should like the diet for a 
permanent thing. We sat on the floor in a very 
neat and pleasant room overlooking the river and 
ate the various sorts of fish, rice, edible sea weeds, 
daikon, etc., with unlimited tea, sake, cakes, and 
confectionery. In the meantime the dancing went 
on with the accompanying native music. The 
former is posturing only, no violent movements 
such as we make, but a series of gentle motions, 
not even as much action as in the stately and ele¬ 
gant old minuet. One of the dances was called 
the fan dance, in which this necessary summer 
article plays a very important part. The girls 
were elegantly dressed in silks of beautiful pat- 


.TAIWNKSK DIN NICK. 


28 


terns; there were four of them. The music was 
not equal to Straus or Sousa, and I wouldn’t care 
for many repetitions of it. 

I was on a trip in 1876, between Kobe and 
Yokohama, on the steamer Costa Rica, newly 
christened by the Japanese the “Nagoya Maru.” 
On board was Prince Mito, a great Daimio, and 
his wife, a most refined and elegant-looking 
lady of olive complexion and gentle manners. 
The boat had a very good piano which the 
purser played exceedingly well. For a long time 
we sat and listened. I wondered if the sweet 
little lady appreciated it, she sat attentive, but 
gave no sign of approval. Perhaps she thought 
no better of that than we did of their koto, sami- 
sen and biwa this evening. 

At the conclusion of the dinner we were at¬ 
tended to the door by the host and hostess, and 
the dancing girls, who bade us farewell with great 
empressement. 

We were sorry to leave, but as it was time 
for us to meet our steamer at Kobe, we 
bade good-bye to Kyoto on the 24th of 
December, the boys going via Nara to see 
that old city, for many years the capital, and its 
great bronze Buddha 58 feet high in a sitting 
posture, but neither this nor a great wooden one at 


24 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


Kyoto, nor a new large bronze one at Hiogo nor any 
other in Japan compares in artistic merit with the 
wonderful Buddha of Kamakura, which is almost 50 
feet high, also in a sitting posture, and has such an air 
of repose, perfect calm with dignity and purity, as 
no other one possesses. Kamakura was for many 
years the capital of Japan. It was made so under 
the reign of Yoritomo, the first of the long line of 
Shoguns, who under this name assumed and really 
wielded the vast powers of governing the country, 
and while nominally under the control of the 
Mikado, yet really held this august individual 
under surveillance at Kyoto as too sacred a person 
to be seen or to have part in the occupation of 
making laws or administering them. 

It was here under this reign that in A. D. 1252 
was made and set up this most remarkable statue 
of Buddha, and for more than 640 years with its 
golden eyes it has serenely looked out on the world 
around it. It has seen the city once containing 
over a million people, gradually vanish from sight 
and finally disappear, leaving only a few scattered 
cottages, and nothing to tell of the former great¬ 
ness save itself. Since then its eyes have rested 
only on the charming verdant landscape, its own 
pious worshippers and the temple of Kwannon 
near by. 


DAI BUTSU TEMPLE, NARA. 



























STATUES OF BUDDHA. 


25 


Still the sacred likeness of Gautama looks out 
placidly, and if the devotion of the people is not 
so universal as formerly, yet a new class of 
devotees are added who come from afar over the 
sea, and of an alien race, to admire and worship this 
wonderfully artistic work and the peaceful expres¬ 
sion forever resting on its remarkable countenance, 
fit emblem of the repose claimed for the divinely 

blessed of this religion. 

© 

I forgot to speak of the temple at Kioto, San- 
ju-San-jen-do, containing 1,000 large Buddhas, say 
about 6 feet high, all gilded, and on and around 
them were 32,333 little ones, so that there is in all 
33,333 images, a curious freak, the large ones are 
not bad, each one is finely gilded, and it must 
have taken a great amount of piety to furnish such 
a quantity of gold, “but all that a man hath will he 
give for his soul. Kobe has grown much; as has 
its larger half, Hiogo. They are separated by a 
street,one is the foreign, Kobe, and the other, Iliogo, 
is the native town, like Yokohama and Kanagawa. 
The evidences of prosperity in this country since 
my former visit are great, and I am sure the people 
have grown richer, for they have taken all the 
loans for carrying on the war themselves. We 
found here a nice hotel, the Oriental, kept by a 
Frenchman. There is nothing made here that is 


26 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


new or strange, nor any special attraction, yet it 
seems a favorite resort for residence on account of 
its protection from cold winds in winter by the 
great range of hills behind the town. It is a 
charming ride back to these hills and to a water- 
fall, which though not very large is really beauti¬ 
ful; going up the narrow gorge leading to it we 
passed a very large monkey in a cage, the most 
vicious and spiteful one I ever saw. He 
jumped at us with wonderful ferocity, shaking the 
bars of the cage violently, and when I stuck my 
cane in, he jumped several feet, seized it, and it 
took the strength of two of us to pull it from his 
grasp. Riding along a path on the hillside far 
above the town we passed many pleasant houses of 
foreigners doing business below near the sea. 
Really their lots are cast in pleasant places for the 
view of the bay and the islands across is charming. 
On our way back we stopped at a cane curio shop. 
The proprietor is an artist. He takes a bamboo 
stick and carves on it all sorts of curious figures. 
One we got had Daikoking, the God of Good 
Luck, looking over a crowd of rats just below 
him; there were 72 distinct animals wrought out 
and the good-natured god was smiling on them 
pleasantly. Another one had a dragon coiled 
around, sometimes under the surface then a part 


HOTEL,, HAKONE 
































































COURTS AT OSAKA. 


27 


of his skin repeatedly appearing. We got another 
one with a war steamer carved on it; battle, smoke, 
and men and guns are seen. On the 25th we 
went up to Osaka and visited the shop of the por¬ 
celain painter, Yabu Meizan. lie is very cele¬ 
brated. He had 17 men and boys at work, 
all decorating. lie makes the designs and watches 
them carefully in executing the work. Some are 
very wonderful workers. All is order, neatness 
and silence, no words spoken. I saw a bowl 
which on the outside represents the seasons and 
inside clouds of butterflies flying spirally, thous¬ 
ands of them minutely drawn, going towards the 
center. We then went through many streets to 
the courts of justice. After sending our cards in 
a gentleman came down, and on being informed of 
our wish to see the building and procedure, showed 
us about the rooms, which are large and numerous, 
embracing many different courts, finally we were 
shown into one where a session was being held. 
It was very interesting to see the proceedings. 
There were three judges seated on a raised plat¬ 
form some three feet above us which ran quite 
across the room, the presiding one was in the 
center and on one side sat the clerk on the other 
the prosecuting attorney. Below and in front 
were the attorneys of plaintiff and defendant, one 


28 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


at each side. We heard them make their pleas, 
saw them submit their full briefs, then the judge 
looked them over, asked many questions and so we 
left them. Apparently it was all done rightlyand 
in proper order. We went then to the mint some 
two miles off, for distances are great here, Osaka 
having a population of 484,000. It is situated on 
the Yodogawa (Yodo River). We were shown 
through in the most obliging manner by one of 
the officials and saw the process of coining from 
the very commencement of the melting of the 
bullion to the turning out of the perfectly milled 
silver yen, (one dollar), and the five-yen gold- 
piece. No gold circulates, as it is worth twice its 
nominal value in silver, which is legal tender. 
They have in addition national currency equivalent 
to our greenbacks and national bank notes. 
Their coins are as fine as our own or any European 
ones. The situation of the mint is beautiful, 
directly on the bank of this great river. In 1876 
I procured here one of the first five complete 
sets of their gold coins ever made. They were 
designed for the Philadelphia Exposition. $20, 
$10, $5, $3, $2.50 and $1. I have them yet. 
Osaka is one of the most important towns in 
the country. Its manufacturing interest is very 
large, and one sees plenty of chimneys tower- 


CASTLE AT OSAKA. 


29 


ing up like a foreign city. Its great castle, a relic 
of ancient times, is well worth a visit; after 
crossing the river we rode some two miles to it. 
eJust then it was occupied by soldiers who were here 
getting ready for a visit to China—there were both 
horse and foot regiments. We were not able to 

O 

go inside on account of the war, although in 1876 
I went all over it. It is made of stone, some of 
them are so immense that it seems almost as im¬ 
possible to have moved them without machinery as 
Pompey’s Pillar. We went over the bridge and 
moat to the entrance and saw some which we 
judged to be 25x40 feet surface and suppose the 
thickness would be in proportion. The space oc¬ 
cupied by the castle is very great and there is a 
tine view from it overlooking the city; its moat is 
very deep and wide and was filled with water and 
well walled on both sides. On the 26th we had 
little to do or see, so as our old friend, the Belgic, 
was in port, we went out to see Captain Walker, he 
was bound homeward and was pleased by our at¬ 
tention and I thought I never would get away from 
the temptations of the purser, he made the most 
remarkably insinuating cocktails, and after drink¬ 
ing one for the renewing of our acquaintance, then 
I must drink one for future good luck, then he 
insisted it was his birthday and I must take one 


30 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


for that, and I do not doubt that if I had not posi¬ 
tively torn myself away he would have found it 
was the birthday of his father and mother, was 4th 
of July, and 22d of February and Thanksgiving 
before he had finished the entertainment. 

On the evening of the 27th at the close of a 
violent wind storm we got on board of the Em¬ 
press of China for Hong Kong, via Nagasaki and 
Shanghai. She is a splendid ship, and we had 
fine large rooms, one for each of us, large wide 
promenade decks and good fare. I think she is 
better than our Belgic, more roomy, but yet I 
much prefer our passage of eighteen days in 
smooth seas and pleasant autumn weather to the 
cold, icy and stormy one of the Empress of China 
of fourteen days to Yokohama from Vancouver, 
for nine of them the passengers were shut down 
below, many confined to their berths, and the man 
at the lookout was so in danger as to have to abandon 
his place; all this while we on the San Fransisco route 
were sailing in smooth seas and with most enjoyable 
weather. I like a pleasant time at sea for one can suf¬ 
fer more in nine days of storm than a score of days 
saved can compensate for. We went nicely through 
the inland sea which, however, wasnot so charming 
as I found it in midsummer of 1876, the vegetation 
not being green and fresh as then. We arrived at 


TORII, KAMAKURA 

































NAGASAKI. 


31 


Nagasaki before 8 a. m. of the 29th, where we 
were to coal, as this is in the vicinity of the great 
coal mines of Takashima (shima means island), 
only eight miles away; we took a run through the 
town, stopping at a large Buddhist cemetery where 
they have put people in very thick and close, they 
double up the corpses and put them in a compact 
shape sitting, and only taking up about two and 
one-half feet square of room. But they also 
cremate, more often, I think, than inter. We 
also visited a Shinto temple called the Temple 
of the Bronze Horse, but the horse possessed very 
little artistic merit, but there was a very line view 
hereof the town and harbor and there was a colos¬ 
sal bronze torii at the entrance. I ought to say 
that a torii is made sometimes of stone and 
sometimes of wood and now and then of 
bronze. (See view. ) The line stone one at Kama¬ 
kura is some thirty feet or more in height and 
of line gray granite. It is a poor temple when 
they are of wood and they are found in front of 
Shinto and Buddhist temples, although really a 
Shinto emblem. We were off at four o’clock in 
the afternoon for China, but we had an amusing 
time watching the girls and boys coaling, more 
than half the coalers were girls, and there were 
multitudes of them. A gang of men tilled small 


32 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


sacks with coal, then they were passed on from 
hand to hand, each person perhaps not over two 
and one-half feet from the other, up the side of 
the barge to the ship and there dumped in. I 
should not think each sack contained over twenty 
pounds, but they worked fast. There were a dozen 
small boats with drags running about scraping the 
bottom of the harbor for pieces that dropped over 
board. I saw several in which the man had his 
wife and baby with him while gathering fuel 
The Japs waste nothing. 


WOOSUNG, CHINA. 


38 


III. 

We had a pleasant, swift passage to Woosung, 
arriving on New Year’s morning, 1895, fully ex¬ 
pecting to go up to Shanghai, hut owing to one 
Craddock, the agent of the line, we did not. 
We were only eight miles off, and it was very pro 
yoking, especially as our Captain had told us we 
would have plenty of time. The fact was he 
(Craddock) did not want to send the boat up and 
back again. We offered him $75 to send us up 
but it was no go. We sent our protest, sixteen of 
us, to Sir Wm. Van Horn, President of the C. P. 
R. R. at Montreal, but never heard of its recep¬ 
tion. We were soon off for Ilong Kong, again a 
fair passage, passing many islands, and sometimes 
the mainland in view, sometime Formosa, arriving 
at the Chinese coast near Hong Kong on the 2d, 
and at four o’clock in the afternoon we landed. 

In parting with Japan I must say that in my 
opinion the success of her people in the war with 
China seemed then most certain; the universal 
devotion of the whole people to the cause, their 
willingness to give their money and themselves to 
it, with their quite thorough preparation for the 


34 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


war, warranted this conclusion. Certainly they 
are and always have been brave, all the legends, 
History, poetry and song of the country are in 
praise of bravery in war, and fidelity to their lord 
or clan, and while not a large people they are quite 
muscular and capable of standing much fatigue as 
is shown by the long rapid runs made by the jinri- 
kisha men; two of them once drew me fifteen miles 
in two and three-quarter hours. Besides, they are 
well trained and disciplined, their soldiers have been 
trained by German officers, and our naval school 
at Annapolis has educated many of the officers who 
distinguished themselves in the great fight off the 
Yalu river. These are immense advantages over 
the ill-trained, half starved mob that constituted 
the Chinese army. Besides, they have tact and 
don’t get rattled. I was told by an English 
officer who saw the battle of Ping Yang that the 
Japanese handled their vessels beautifully. Then, 
such swindling has always existed in the Chinese ad¬ 
ministration, that her ships and forts were not per¬ 
fectly prepared, having much poorer guns and 
ammunition than their enemies, and, it is said, that 
at one arsenal great heaps of clay balls painted 
black were piled up and passed inspection as iron 
ones. They tell, too, of a great lot of Belgian 
rifles being bought for $3 a piece and palmed off 


)XOM DMOH 






























FUTURH OF JAPAN AND CHINA. 


35 


on the government at $9, by which some one made 
millions. Li Hung Chang is much slandered or 
else he is venal. 

As to the ultimate destinies of Japan and Chi¬ 
na, these are the problems of the future in the 
East, no doubt the prosperity of the former and 
their great success in the war will make them self- 
confident and many of her people will desire fur¬ 
ther conquests, but it seems certain most of the 
ministers and leading men properly estimate their 
strength and the reason why they so easily over¬ 
came the Chinese, and that to fight a European 
power would be a different thing. Russia 
seems to be their “bete noir ” and the only power 
which they run any risk of being embroiled with. 
I very much doubt if the question of the island of 
Saghalien was open now, if Russia would get it 
without a war. As to China, as I have remarked 
elsewhere, what she needs is a government on 
European models of honesty, and a proper revenue 
system. She would be a great power if wisely 
ruled, and might cut a great figure in the future, 
but the fear is that there will be no change, that 
the same course will be pursued hereafter, as in the 
past, and that sooner or later European powers 
will divide her country among themselves, no doubt 
this idea is in the minds of the Russians, who want 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


36 


a southern outlet for Siberia and their great 
railroads. 

In 1868 I made a trip through Russia in Europe 
and had as courier a very intelligent man of Eng¬ 
lish parentage, though a native of Russia, having 
been born at Cronstadt. lie told me that south¬ 
ern Siberia was a very line country and capable of 
sustaining a very large population, that all sorts of 
cereals were easily and abundantly produced there. 
He also said he had pre-empted a piece of land, 
some 120 acres or so, and was going there to live 
as soon as he was able to build a house and get 
work-animals and tools. It seems that here is the 
possible and almost probable danger for China and 
India. Russia has already conquered the Khanates 
of Khiva, Bokhara, etc., reaching to the borders of 
Afghanistan and also is on the frontiers of China, 
and stands patiently waiting the suitable oppor¬ 
tunity for further advances when time and circum¬ 
stances offer. She is completing a great railroad 
line through Siberia to the Pacific ocean, her peo¬ 
ple are more prolific in the increase of population 
than most others. She will soon have many mill¬ 
ions of people along and near the line, with large 
towns, and the Russians are a race very capable 
for labor, and submissive to drill and discipline. 

Should the Czar conclude to over-run China and 


HONG KONG. 


37 


set up a new Northern sovereignty of his own, it 
would not he strange nor is it improbable. 

So, too, some day the same danger might 
occur to India, only the mountains of Afghanistan 
and its warlike people intervene, but she will 
not go to India soon, a trip to China is 
more probable in the near future and much easier, 
the Anglo-Saxon is a different sort of person, with 
courage and a full purse. 

Hong Kong is on a rocky island belonging to 
Great Britain, governed in part by the Governor, 
who is appointed by the crown. He has a Coun¬ 
cil, part of which appointed by him and part 
chosen by the citizens, but he always has a veto on 
everything. I believe it is better governed than 
most cities that have a more democratic sys¬ 
tem. These Governors are always men of high 
character. I do not think such men as Tweed or 
our recent Mayor would get this position. They 
claim to have some 200,000, people all gained in 
fifty-two years, of course, largely Chinese. There 
are many tine buildings, some very superior, 
notably the I long Kong and Shanghai Bank—one of 
the finest for the purpose I have ever seen. I hardly 
think there is any in New York equal to it for size, 
spaciousness and beauty. One of the most re¬ 
markable institutions in the East is this banking 


38 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


corporation. Its operations are on a most gigan¬ 
tic scale. It was originally incorporated by the 
Legislative Council of Hong Kong, and confirmed 
by Great Britain. Since that time, after paying 
liberal dividends to its shareholders from its 
profits, there has been gained an increase of 
capital from ten to fifteen millions of dollars. 
It owes the public for deposits, notes in cir¬ 
culation, etc., $136,000,000, and has branches 
or agencies at all important points in the Orient, 
all under constant supervision of the home office. 
The management of this vast business is mainly in 
the hands of Mr. Thomas Jackson at Hong Kong, 
and of his distinguished ability I was assured there 
was not a question of doubt as well as of the con¬ 
servative character and high repute of both himself 
and the court of seven directors. Their note circu¬ 
lation is ten millions of dollars. While I was in Yoko¬ 
hama the bank loaned to the Chinese government 
ten millions. At the latter place their branch is 
in control of a brother of Mr. Jackson of Hong 
Kong. I judge from my acquaintance, and not 
large transaction there with him, that the branch is 
sure to do well under his care. 

The town lies at the foot of a great peak or 
high ridge of the island which rises some 1,800 
feet from the sea; houses are built all along on the 






































flat space (rather limited in extent) below, and then 
along, one over another, almost or in some places 
quite to the top. There the view is charming, off 
in the distance one way lies the ocean, in another 
direction is Canton ninety miles away, from which 
we saw, the day boat, coming down. Across 
the harbor lies Kail Lung, the residence of many 
people, native and foreign, and also the location 
of the greatest dry-dock plant in the East. Here 
are three docks, and one of them will receive 
a ship 535 feet long. One day we went there and 
were very politely treated by Mr. Cook, the gen¬ 
eral manager, being shown over the premises and 
brought back to town in the company’s launch, a 
trip of some miles. We also saw a match manu¬ 
factory here, where parents and children were busily 
engaged, some very small children were at work 
there, very deftly handling the matches and 
boxes. There are also large docks for unload¬ 
ing vessels, there beinsr much more level land 
here than opposite in Hong Kong. The latter has 
the name, or claims to have, of being the third city 
in the world for foreign commerce in value, coming 
in and passing out. I do not believe this is true. On 
the hill, some 300 or 400 feet above the town, are all 
the reservoirs from which the city is supplied with 
water, which comes through an aqueduct from a 


40 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


great reservoir situated some miles away in a valley 
high up and towards the sea, passing through a 
tunnel under a high peak. It is rain water, and 
no doubt healthy. They say the Chinese waste 
much of it, they will let the taps run all day and 
night. There is, also, a fine race course below the 
city in a part of the town called Happy Valley, 
alongside of which are cemeteries for Christians, 
Protestant and Catholic, Parsees and Mahometans. 
I suppose the name is from the idea that, to many, 
death is happiness. There is, just below, a sugar 
refinery, where they make poor sugar and are 
afraid to let any one see how they do it, for they 
refused us. They need have no fears, for from the 
appearance of their product no one could learn 
anything worth knowing of them. It is on the 
peak that people go for comfort in summer, and 
even in winter it is pleasanter than below. There is a 
cable railway that carries people up speedily, and 
at the top is a fine hotel, said to be much better 
than the pretentious Hong Kong below, which has 
a splendid building but a poor table service and 
cuisine. Our rooms, however, being on the sixth 
floor, gave us an excellent outlook over the harbor 
and city. We were very nicely entertained by 
Mr. Hunt, our consul, and his interesting family 
consisting of wife, two young gentlemen and 


CANTON. 


41 


two young ladies, all very agreeable. They 
are from Mississippi. The Portuguese Con¬ 
sul, also, was very nice to us, invited us to dinner, 
and desired us to wait and attend a grand ball soon 
coming off, but as we had already been compelled 
to stop longer than we intended, owing to delay 
of arrival of our steamer four and one-half days 
behind time, we were unable to accept the invita¬ 
tion. We spent two days at Canton and had a 
complete exterior view of Chinese life in that me¬ 
tropolis. We made a night voyage on the Powan, 
Capt. Goggin, as funny a little chunk of a man as 
ever was seen, he was so short and thick that it 
was a job to keep in his chair. The first thing that 
struck me as strange was to see weapons in the 
cabin, and then, in our rooms even, were swords, it 
seems these are to fight pirates with, luckily we 
were not put to the test, but I think we would just 
have had to fight if attacked, as the river pirates 
are regular devils. After our breakfast we went 
to a hotel in Shameen, a part of the city formerly 
occupied by forts; these were demolished when 
the English had control of the city and the Empe¬ 
ror turned the ground over to be occupied by for¬ 
eigners. There are two hotels there, an English 
and French church, a club, many nice resi¬ 
dences, fine wide streets, and a small park looking 


42 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


out on the water. It is very nice compared with 
the city proper. 

We soon got off in chairs, with our American 
Chinese guide, born in San Francisco, speaking just 
as good English as we do, and also good Chinese. 
We went, borne by natives, first to some great 
buildings being constructed by and for the Chung 
family, they were very strange and curious; a series 
of halls open on one side inward, made _of fine 
granite with inscriptions in Chinese, golden letters 
on black ground against the walls and with many 
weird figures of animals, dragons and other impos¬ 
sible conceptions. An enormous lot of money is 
being put into these buildings with no architectu¬ 
ral merit. We then went to the Temple of 500 
Genii, among whom sits Marco Polo, with a great 
many saints, some Buddhist and some ancestral; 
then to the five-storied Pagoda, situated on 
a hill close to the city-wall and overlooking 
an extensive cemetery, and in other directions 
a fine view of the whole city. The streets 
are very narrow, often the people had to 
crowd themselves to allow us to pass, many are 
are from six to eight feet wide only. We went to 
the chamber of horrors, which is a delineation of 
the tortures and punishments of the wicked in a 
Chinese hell, too awkward to be interesting; 




CAN A L AND HOUSE BOATS. CANTON. 



































CANTON. 


43 


also to the prison and through it, a most uninter¬ 
esting place and rather unsafe; all the prisoners 
were begging; they were all chained, but an 
Englishman or American would not stay there 
long, too easy to get out. We also saw pagodas 
and some temples, but the latter not so frequent 
as in Japan, nor with any pretense to architectural 
beauty—in fact, poor and plain. We were not 
attacked, but some boys made faces and spit at 
us. It is not safe to resent this in a crowd; a man 
told me he was struck a hard blow on the shoulder 
by one of these rowdies and dared not resent it, 
for they would have pulled him to pieces. There 
is not much to attract, but much to see in Canton. 
Every one seems to eat in the front shop; we saw 
them at breakfast and dinner, all crowded around 
a table stowing away their rice, vegetables and 
fish as fast as possible. They do not refuse meat 
when they can afford it and are especially fond of 
roast pig. They keep the rice running into their 
mouths in a continual stream with their little chop 
sticks. I never became expert with them, although 
I can use them. We went in various shops, one, 
where they made a singular jewelry of lovely col¬ 
ored feathers worked in against a back of silver; 
they make these feathers into hair and breast 
pins, ear rings, etc. It is a very peculiar style of 


44 


A TKIP AROUND TDK WORLD. 


work, and shows the blue and greenish feathers 
compactly placed, almost like an enamel. There 
were jade stores with some tine specimens, but the 
true and fine jade is very high-priced. Their silks 
and embroideries are very fine, as also their teak- 
wood frames for the screens and the cabinets of 
same; the carving of them is excellent. But, as I 
remarked, in speaking of Japan embroideries, they 
do not change, the same pheasants, parrots, flow¬ 
ers and so forth, are put on now as IDO years ago; 
they are, however, very pretty, and placed, as they 
are, in these teak wood black frames, are sold at 
exceedingly low prices; in fact, seem at present 
value of silver, almost given away. I am sure if 
one has a patient disposition and enquiring mind, 
four or five days can be spent profitably in Canton. 
We did not see the bad sights nor smell so many 
disagreeable odors as we expected. We went the 
second day to see a sort of school, not in session, 
with a little lake in center of the buildings, and 
after to the great examination place, where once 
a year thousands of young men are gathered and 
put in small shed rooms about 3x5 feet, where 
they are kept for three examination sessions of 
three days each, studying out and answering the 
texts given them; these are delivered to them each 
morning at daylight, and their answers must be 


EXAMINATION HALE, CANTON 

























EXAMINATION HALL, CANTON. 


4f> 


handed in the following morning. Of the 11,166 
persons for whom cells are thus provided only 130 
are passed and booked for promotion in civil offices. 
It is a sort of civil service, but a very poor one, 
and many think the success depends much on 
favoritism; then, too, what they learn is mainly 
antiquated rubbish. These people are very in¬ 
genious in copying or doing what they are taught, 
but seem to lack the inventive faculty. In this 
respect they compare unfavorably with the Japan¬ 
ese, but they are most patient workers, and 
close financiers, curiously enough you find them as 
clerks in Japanese and foreign banks, occupying 
responsible places; they seem born calculators, 
and with their abacus can answer any problem in 
exchange or money in a few minutes. One day I 
went into a National Bank, in Iliogo, and there 
was a Chinese shroff, or calculating man, to whom all 
money problems were submitted. I believe if they 
could get out of their present miserable literati 
rule (which is founded mainly on a knowledge of 
the stories, myths and teachings of the past), and 
stop following their traditions, throw off the man¬ 
darins and their power too, and have good, pro¬ 
gressive men put over them, that the Chinese 
would come to the front, and soon become most 
formidable rivals in the artistic and industrial race 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


4 6 


of the world. With their patient industry, cheap 
diet and low wages, they might make thousands 
of articles at much lower prices than the civilized 
nations; but it is hardly fair to call a people un¬ 
civilized who knew how to make gun-powder and 
to print when our own ancestors were wild forest 
rovers with no arts or science. Six cents per day 
will get lots of laborers, and 15 to 25 is enough for 
skilled ones. Give them time and teachers and 
they will learn, lam sure; then, too, they have 
unlimited coal to furnish power if needed. To 
show their prices, a man took a pair of my low 
shoes and duplicated them, the soles and heels of 
good No. 1, leather, the upper of excellent white 
canvas, the lacing part of fine cream-colored tan 
leather for $2.50, equal to $1.25 gold. They 
made us suits of pyjamas for night wear, coat 
and pantaloons of excellent pongee silk for $4, 
equal to $2 gold; also similar ones of excellent 
English woolen goods at same price; nice Eng¬ 
lish cloth suits, Prince Albert, for $12 to $18 
lined with silk, such as cost at home $40 to $60; 
the workmen get very, very little. We had a 
nice lunch at Shameen with a former employe 
of Mr. E. A. Hitchcock, of St. Louis, and left 
with, on the whole, no unpleasant memories of 
Canton. 







































SINGAPORE. 


47 


Finally, at 9 :40 p. m., on the 11th of January, 
we got off on board the Gera—North German 
Lloyds—for Singapore, where we arrived on the 
1Btli, at eleven o’clock in the morning. Off 
the port we encountered the usual funny 
boats with long outriggers, on which the man 
sometimes stands to balance the boat against the 
strong winds on the sail. It looks pokerish, but 
these people are as much at home in water as out, 
and are very adroit in getting back into their boats. 
The weight on these outriggers depends on the 
strength of the wind, so they put more men to 
overcome it as it increases; they say, for instance, 
it is a one-man or a two or three-man gale. 

Lots of boys came out, too, to dive for the small 
silver coins thrown to them ; sometimes three or four 
at once would jump out and go down like lead for 
a Hve-cent piece, and they get in their boats and 
spill out what water comes in with their feet with¬ 
out losing view of other possible half-dimes com¬ 
ing. Singapore is an island which formerly be¬ 
longed to the Sultan of Johore; in 1819 it was 
bought of the then Sultan by Sir Stamford Katlles 
for the East India Company for $60,000 and an an¬ 
nuity for life of $24,000. This only bought a strip 
five miles long; the remainder of the island was 
gained afterward, in 1823, when the East India 


48 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


Company had learned to appreciate the wisdom of 
his bargain. 

It was made the capital of the so-called 
“Straits Settlements,"’ which comprise all the 
towns along here, in 1832, and came from noth¬ 
ing but a few Malay fishing boats in 1819 to have 
a population of 184,000 people in 1891, and is still 
growing. There are 122,000 Chinese here, who 
are, as everywhere, irrepressible workers; there are 
also some 15,000 Europeans, many Hindoos, some 
Arabs and a sprinkling of all sorts of Asiatics 
mixed in. The island is, like Ilong Kong, gov¬ 
erned by a Council, but really under control of 
the British Government, as the Governor is at the 
head and controls the appointment of half the Coun¬ 
cil, and has a positive veto. The other half of the 
Council is chosen by the people, so the Governor 
has a double hold on legislation, having half power 
in making and full power to veto the laws, but prac¬ 
tically the plan works well; good laws are sure to 
be approved, and it is only local questions that come 
up; no matter of tariffs or foreign affairs trouble 
them, as it is a free port; no custom house officer 
investigated us going off or coming back. They 
have properly constituted courts presided over 
by crown appointees, who, I presume, are just 
men. The colony pays £100,000 a year to the 


H'jV'riJA A VI VIM 






















SINGAPORE. 


49 


crown for its protection and its troops, besides 
providing barracks or partially so. The muni¬ 
cipality has an area of twenty-eight square miles. 
The climate is temperate, the mercury ranging 
from 70 deg. to 90 deg. Fahrenheit the year round. 
There were formerly lots of tigers and venomous 
snakes here, and in £roin£ over the botanical £ar- 
den (in a park) I was looking for some of the latter, 
but found none, as they are mostly killed off. The 
police are made up of a few Europeans, and the 
remainder Sikhs, Malays, lvlings and Chinese. The 
Sikhs are very reliable; we saw plenty of them 
doing police duty at Ilong Kong. The revenues 
are received from opium, spirits, stamps, pawn¬ 
brokers’ tines, etc., etc., and in 1890 amounted to 
$4,363,237. 

Across a narrow strait over which timers some- 
times swim is Johore, where the Sultan still has his 
home seat, palace and petty kingdom, although he 
has still fifty-six acres of land in Singapore re¬ 
served by his predecessor, and on which is also a 
tine palace. Last Monday (14th) he gave a grand 
entertainment there to 750 guests, and all had 
plenty of room for dancing; but unfortunately lie 
is said to be dying of consumption. (P. S.: 
Since died.) One sees here an immense variety 
of people—Malays, with their dark, sharp, 


50 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


dangerous look; Chinese, Burmese, Siamese, 
Japanese, Cingalese, Tamils, Arabs, Jews, Parsees, 
Negroes and Europeans. These straits of Ma¬ 
lacca are the great duct through which passes a 
most enormous commerce from Europe and Amer¬ 
ica to China, Japan, Australia and all the islands, 
Java, Borneo, etc. 

The flags of all nations float here on ships re¬ 
ceiving or discharging cargo, coaling or awaiting 
arrival of connecting vessels. There is one great 
English line whose pennants are everywhere in the 
East and Australia; its operations are enormous, and 
it controls more steam vessels than any other in 
the world. It is called the British India Steam¬ 
ship Company. It is said they charter many of their 
steamers, as a law compels companies owning over 
a certain number of vessels to pay a special extra 
tax towards support of the navy. There is a tine 
museum, public library, English and Roman Cathe¬ 
drals, a fine reservoir from top of which is an ad¬ 
mirable view, a race course, an esplanade in front of 
the chief hotels next the sea, where we saw a foot¬ 
ball game. There are many fine buildings, every 
prospect pleases, and only the hotels are vile. We 
saw for two hours a great turnout of carriages, 
gharrys, jinrikishas, etc., containing all sorts of 
people out for an airing. Many Chinese and Eu- 


SINGAPORE. 


51 


ropeans were in fine, handsome carriages, with 
three servants besides the driver, two behind 
and one at his side, all with great show of dress and 
color. These people seem to enjoy themselves here 
almost under the equator, with their high average 
temperature and days and nights about equal the 
year around, but I did not see here or in India any 
evidence that hot climates suit the white race. The 
ladies do not look bright and alive, but pale and 
languid, compared to those at home. This long-con¬ 
tinued warm weather is enfeebling, and children 
must be sent home to grow up, or else to high 
mountains, if they are to have any constitutions to go 
into life with. I never saw any English people who 
did not say they would much prefer to live at home 
if only they had sufficient means. 


52 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


CHAPTER IV. 

We got off late in the evening, and all next day 
were in sight of land. Formerly it was often dan¬ 
gerous for sailing ships along here; the villainous 
natives would slip up on one in a calm and kill the 
officers and crew, then run the vessel up one of the 
small creeks and dispose of the cargo. But they have 
been taught better; small armed vessels have been 
sent up these water ways, burned up their villages and 
killed the natives as far as possible, so they behave 
better now. We had, as ever on our route, favora¬ 
ble weather and pleasant skies, with good progress 
until, on the morning of January 21, the spicy is¬ 
land of Ceylon came in view; great woods of cocoa- 
nut trees met our eyes—forests they really are of 
thousands of acres, although we could see they were 
planted in rows. All day long and up to night we 
sailed along in full view of the shore, going quite 
around the lower part of the island and passing Point 
de Galle, ran into Colombo about eight o’clock at 
night but we were compelled to lie off the pier head 
three-quarters of an hour for a pilot to come and 
show us our anchoring berth. It took us two and one- 
half hours then before we could get our baggage 


NATIVE HOYS—KANDY CEYLON. 







































































































COLOMBO. 


53 


and up to the landing house, and it was near mid¬ 
night before we were in our rooms at the Great Ori¬ 
ental Hotel on this island of so much song and story. 
Our first sights on awakening were the wide streets 
and the harbor, entirely artificially made by the sea 
walls or piers. It was this which took the trade 
from Pointde Galle. If they had made a wall there 
to protect the ships from storms, they might have 
kept the trade, and saved all the Calcutta vessels from 
the East seventy-five miles and back of sailing. The 
hotel is rather grand, with a lofty and wide dining 
room some forty feet to the ceiling, set back from 
the outer wall by a court that just leaves light 
enough to be pleasant and keeps out the sun’s 
glare; then there is a court yard filled with tropical 
plants and trees. The table was very good and 
servants attentive. The change was pleasant 
after our ten days’ voyage. We found the day 
pretty hot, too much so to venture out except 
in carriages, but after four o’clock in the after¬ 
noon we had a charming ride about the place 
through woods natural and planted; by cinnamon 
trees which smelled and tasted strongly of that 
spice; through many streets and by houses with very 
large grounds and too many trees, shutting out 
almost too much of the light, air and view ; then on 
by little fresh-water lakes, and after came a lovely 


54 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


sea-side ride of a mile back to the light-house and 
clock tower near our hotel and right in the busy 
part of the town. The great ocean was idly breaking 
on the shore in a most leisurely way, as if it had 
no future of storm or wrath in its bosom. We 
passed long lines of barracks filled with troops on 
our return, which latter keep things safe for Eng¬ 
land. Next morning we sped away by rail to Kandy, 
a charming ride of fifty miles, more especially 
fine after getting over the first low-lying ten miles, 
the road is most picturesque, running along by 
the margin of hills and precipices, rising higher 
and higher, winding in and out, making much dis¬ 
tance to gain a little, opening one panorama after 
another, very beautiful to see, until our ride 
ended at this ancient town, not a city, but a charm¬ 
ing village situated on a little lake of artificial for¬ 
mation by embankment of a valley, but just as 
beautiful as if natural. 

We soon took a gharry (a one-horse, covered, 
four-seated vehicle with flat roof doubled so as to 
protect the head from summer sun, the interven¬ 
ing air space being about four inches; I think the 
name must have come from the native effort to say 
carriage), for the wonderful Peredeniya gardens, 
four miles off. They are situated on a charming river 
of considerable size and some thirty feet above it, 



(;RKAT BAMBOOS P K RKDRNIVA 














PEREDENIYA. 


DO 


and comprise about one hundred and fifty acres of 
beautifully laid out ground, with great variety of all 
trees that will grow in this climate, both indigen¬ 
ous and foreign. There are two lovely orchid houses, 
where were several specimens in bloom, although it 
was rather too early to see them all out in full 
glory. There was a row of immense Assam india- 
rubber trees, with a peculiar and remarkable show 
of great roots above ground in most curious and fan¬ 
tastic shapes, covering the surface, running over 
each other and looking more like an aggregation of 
gigantic Pythons than anything else. It looked as 
if there were cords of wood in the roots of each tree 
lying thus edgewise above ground. Then there 
was a beautiful row of great palms, great groups 
of tall bamboo growing in clumps of hundreds 
close together, towering forty to sixty feet in the 
air. Then we picked nutmegs and cloves from the 
trees. The cloves are just as we get them here, only 
green, but in my pocket they soon turned black 
and had the true flavor. The nutmeg had a green 
case like a walnut; picking this off, we found the 
film, called mace, attached to the nut, and which is 
picked off and dried. After two hours of most 
intelligent explanation and guiding by a native 
botanist, we left, and visited a tea plantation, 
and house for drying tea near by. They were dry- 


56 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


mg the leaves by steam after pulling them off the 
shrubs, which looked like small currant bushes. We 
were favorably impressed with this mode of prep¬ 
aration ; it is all moved on from one machine to an¬ 
other, and not handled in the old manner, and which 
is still in use in China and Japan, which is for the tea 
to be dried in copper kettles set in brick and mortar 
over a fire. To see a native Chinese woman or Jap 
at work over the tea in hot weather is rather calcu¬ 
lated to take away the appetite for it. The Cey¬ 
lon and Indian tea has a stronger flavor, and not so 
pleasant as the fine China teas. I was told that at 
twenty cents to twenty-five cents in silver per pound 
for the best they could live and thrive. They wish 
for, and are trying to make, a market for it in our 
country. 

After this we rode back to town and around 
the lake among the private residences of the Col¬ 
ombo people, who come here in summer to avoid 
the extreme heat below; this place being high up 
among the mountains. Then we went to the far- 
famed temple—a humbug—where is said to be one 
of Buddha’s teeth. We were shown about the 
temple (a small affair) by a glib, self-constituted 
guide that I supposed was a priest, and, after giv¬ 
ing money at his request to the temple, Le walked 
along with us, pointing out various pictures on the 



TALIPOT PALM IN RLOSSOM. 


4 .L.- 



















KANDY. 


0 ( 

walls, of hellfire, devils torturing people for va¬ 
rious crimes, such as stealing, cheating, simony, op¬ 
pressing the poor, etc. We finally asked for a 
sight of the tooth, but were told that was impossi¬ 
ble, so we left the humbug of a temple after a 
further backshish to the supposed priest who 
claimed to have been our guide. We had to shake 
off a host of beggars, which are a terrible nuis¬ 
ance at every temple in India. 

Later we went a few miles off to see a sacred 
elephant which belongs to the temple, a great, good- 
natured beast that looked pleasantly and know- 
inglyat us and picked up coins with his trunk. We 
were also followed by a great crowd of boys, all 
crying “Sahib, give, give, give.” Then back to din¬ 
ner, to sleep and an early awakening and start, after 
a cup of tea, some toast and a boiled egg. They 
call this early breakfast “Chota Hazri.” We found 
our trip back to Colombo almost as interesting as 
the one up, on this curious rail road. On our way 
down we met at breakfast two gentlemen who sug¬ 
gested our going over to Tuticorin, in Southern 
India, and thence by rail to Madras. One of them 
was going by that day’s boat. We concluded to do 
so, and, after a great push and hurry, got our 
tickets and baggage ready, and went on board the 
British India Company ship, Ellora, at five o’clock 


58 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


in the evening. She is the slowest vessel I have 
rode on since I was a boy—a ship, with large capac¬ 
ity for cargo, not much for people, and only seven 
and one-half miles an hour speed. The engineer 
amused himself by trolling, so slow was our move¬ 
ment, and said he often caught fish. We had 
two good rooms, a big bath room, and a very poor 
table. As it was the 24th of January, my birthday, I 
got a bottle of champagne to celebrate it with, but it 
was miserable, dead stuff. We were twenty hours in 
making the trip which, if we could have got on 
the regular mail boat which left an hour ahead of 
us, we would have made in fourteen, and she was 
not fast. So we had to put up at this, our first point 
in India, at the British India Hotel. We, however, 
got good rooms, a very fair dinner, had lovely sea 
breezes, and two fellow guests, one a German, and 
his companion a genuine Mahomedan in European 
dress—who argued strongly in favor of his re¬ 
ligion, and, as generally is the case when all are 
amicably disposed, we got on pleasantly. 

At 6 o’clock next morning we were on the 
train for Madura, where we arrived at midday. 
As happens often in India, where there are no 
European hotels, the railroad gave us rooms and 
we ate at the restaurant. I was soon inter¬ 
viewed by two clergymen, native Christians, one 


tank of the golden LILIES 

































MADURA. 


59 

the pastor of a native Congregational Church 
of 400 members and the other the incumbent of an 
Episcopal Church, at which, I understand, all colors 
attend. He was the blackest man, but one, that I 
saw in India. Both wanted rupees. The first said 
there were 15,000 of his fellow-believers in that 
vicinity. He seemed a good sort of a man, and 
talked and acted like an educated American. We 
went, afterwards, to see his church, which might 
be set down in New England and not look out 
of place. After the sun had passed meridian a 
little, we went out, with Solomon David or David 
Solomon (I forget the precedence) as our guide, 
to see the town. He claimed to be a Chris¬ 
tian, and got his name at baptism, but I am sorry 
to say his breath showed that he was fonder of 
the spirits of the still than the Good Spirit, yet 
he was an excellent guide, but his religion I think 
of doubtful quality. First we rode through the 
streets of the native town, then to a remarkable 
tank, several hundred feet square, surrounded by a 
very expensive wall, having a wide walk clear 
around the whole interior of the enclosure, with 
two ghats (rows of steps) leading down to the 
water on every side of the tank, also small towers 
at each corner, and in the center an island with a 
fine temple of considerable size and height, sur- 


60 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 

rounded by a garden of fine trees and shrubs, 
all on a scale comporting well with the size of 
the lake. Near here is a great banian tree, 
540 feet around, and the trunk having a cir¬ 
cumference of seventy feet. I noticed close to 
the trunk a wreath of flowers lying on a stone, 
suspecting it was an act of worship to the tree, 
I asked our guide, and he replied that it was 
an offering to the Cobra that dwelt under the 
tree, and that at night the natives left milk and 
eggs for it. They will not kill these snakes, but offer 
them food by way of propitiation. After leaving 
here we passed by a number of men pumping 
water for irrigation in a manner quite new to us. A 
long stick of timber was suspended like an old- 
fashioned well-sweep on a pole some twelve or 
fifteen feet high, and at one end was a pump stock 
attached; then some five men walked constantly 
back and forth, raising water from the well. We 
next visited the old palace of the Rajah Tiramula 
Nayak, who formerly ruled here. This is a fine 
building, constructed in 1630, and a few years 
ago restored by the English for use as a court 
house at a cost of $450,000. It is of very pecu¬ 
liar architecture, very interesting indeed, but I 
think the money might have built a more suitable 
court room de novo. There is one room in which 


PUMPING WATER. MADURA. 





































































MADURA. 


1)1 


was formerly kept the crown jewels, and was 
Tiramula’s bed room, too. His bed was sus¬ 
pended by four lines from the ceiling fifty-four 
feet above it. A thief made entrance at the 
ceiling, slid down one of the ropes and stole the 
jewels kept there. The Rajah published that if 
the thief would return the treasure he should be 
ennobled, have a hereditary estate and an annuity. 
The thief returned them, received the estate and 
rank; but the annuity was of brief continuance, as 
he was at once beheaded. There is a very fine and 
extensive view from the top of this palace, both of 
town and country. Madura itself is quite a large 
place. Our guide said there was formerly an under¬ 
ground passage from this palace to the great tem¬ 
ple of Shiva, twelve or fifteen hundred feet away, for 
the use of the ladies of the zenana, so they could 
pass to it with privacy. We next went to this tem¬ 
ple; it is an enormous affair, some eight hundred 
feet square in all and is dedicated to Shiva and his 
wife, Minakshi. It has nine gopuras or gateways, 
which impressed me as much as the temple it¬ 
self; one of them is 152 feet high. They 
are oblong, the sides sloping up story by story, 
fourteen of them, to the top. Each recess thus made 
is like a Great shelf, and is filled with large Hindoo 
mythological figures, all looking fresh and of varied 


(]2 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 

and high colors. There are hundreds of these fig¬ 
ures. Then there is the Hall of a Thousand Pil¬ 
lars and other remarkable buildings; a large one 
which, though part of the temple, is used as a ba¬ 
zaar. It is called the Hall of Lakshmi. There are 
many great statues in it, and here men are allowed 
to spread out and sell their wares. There is a tank 
inside the temple, where the faithful can bathe at the 
time of worship. There are special shrines and im¬ 
ages which can be seen for a consideration. There 
are many places where one is shown images. One 
of them shows Shiva as a sow nursing a lot of little 
pigs whose mother had been slain. There are four 
sacred elephants kept in the temple, large ones; 
they seemed well trained and civil, but the trainer 
was persistent in his efforts to force an intimate 
acquaintance with us for backshish purposes. I 
consider this and the temples of Seringham (Trich- 
inopoly) and Tanjore much the most remarkable 
Hindoo places of worship we saw in India, and one 
might find occupation for many days, if not weeks, 
in studying the figures of the gopuras and tem¬ 
ples. Then the size is so immense, and the multi¬ 
tude of natives around in their varied costumes is 
interesting. The greatest drawback to the pleas¬ 
ure of the visit is the crowd of beggars that pur¬ 
sues one constantly, but this is universal in the East 



PAL, ACE OK TIRAMULA NAYAK, MADURA 








































MISSIONARIES. 


()3 


and in many churches and cathedrals in Europe. 
M e left Madura with much regret next morning for 
Trichinopoly. We could have spent another day very 
profitably at Madura if we had been able to spare 
the time. I forgot to name two curious things in 
the palace, one was a swarm of bees hanging 
high up from one of the arches like a hornet’s 
nest; the other, a quantity of great bats, called 
flying foxes, hanging from the roof. We after¬ 
ward saw a great number of these last at two 
other places in India. They were at Amritsar, hanging 
to trees, and when disturbed flew about like bats, 
but are as large as our fox squirrels. I was sorry, 
also, that I had not time to call on Mr. Chandler, the 
head of the Congregational (American) mission¬ 
ary efforts there, which have been very successful. 
I was told by Mr. Preston, a barrister of Madura, 
whom I met, that below, near Tinnevelly, there were 
near 200,000 native Christians divided between the 
Baptist, Episcopal and Catholic faiths. I found 
much prejudice against missionaries among the 
English I happened to meet. They say they live 
well, are comfortable, have fair salaries, go to 
the mountains in summer and enjoy themselves. 
Mr. Talmage has replied to these accusations, in 
a sermon he delivered about Benares, by showing 
the need of decent living in India, to live at all; 


64 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


and an Episcopal missionary I met, told me he 
nearly died trying to go about, as Christ did, on foot, 
and thatoneRev. Mr.Bowen,an American missionary 
who was forty years at Bombay, and who ate only 
such food as the natives ate, dressed as they did, 
walked everywhere, and gave away all the presents of 
clothing, beds, etc., that kindly disposed people 
made him, at last said he was not sure but it was 
better to live more comfortably, and I think the 
natives respect a man more who is dressed better, 
lives better and seems above them, than one who 
would get down on the dirt by their side; besides, 
to live as Bowen did, one must be a celibate, for 
no European or American woman could live long 
in this way. They would get fever and die. Expos¬ 
ure to sun and the night or the early morning 
air is dangerous. In many places the heat goes 
up to 117 deg.; rains, too, are in many places for 
many weeks excessive, sometimes twenty-four 
inches in forty-eight hours, at one place we were 
at 191 inches fell last year in ninety days. In 
Assam six hundred inches are reported at one 
poiut in a year; I was told twelve inches some¬ 
times fell near Bombay in twenty-four hours, and 
often there is a humid and very trying atmosphere. 
So Europeans have need of the comforts of life, 
or they could not endure the work at all. The 


NATIVES, MADURA 






























MISSIONARY CONVERTS. 


65 

Catholics have the advantage of celibacy, and this 
in missionary work seems great. The superstition is 
dense where people worship deities and things too 
vile to put a description of on paper. The ob¬ 
scenity of some things in their mythology is past 
belief, yet very elegant looking natives are be¬ 
lievers in the Hindoo faith and almost all the 
Christian converts are Pariahs, the lowest class of 
people. I was told by Mr. Preston that there was 
not one high caste convert in all the district about 
Madura, and why ? because it means perfect ostra¬ 
cism—a man’s own wife and children would avoid 
him, would not allow his shadow to strike them 
for fear of contamination, if he became a Christian 
he would become an outcast, a Pariah. So it is from 
those who have no caste that the army of converts 
come. There are, it is said, between two and three 
millions of Protestant and Catholic Christians in 
India. I think railroads must help much to break 
the tyranny of caste. The natives ride mainly third 
class, and must mix; they can hardly avoid touch¬ 
ing the hated Pariah, and this, it seems to me, 
is a force of circumstances that must aid in the 
change of feeling. We arrived at Trichinopoly 
Junction at noon, and after tiffin (always tiffin, not 
lunch, in the East) started off for Seringham to 
see the celebrated temples, which are as well 


66 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


worthy of note as those of Madura, and occupy 
more space and are the same style of architecture, 
but are dedicated to Vishnu instead of Shiva. In 
riding there we passed through Trichinopoly pro¬ 
per, sometimes called Trichinopoly Fort, which is 
a place of great historic note; here the French 
once made a night attack on the English in their 
endeavors to capture the fort, but failed with great 
loss. There is here a remarkable rock, which is 
very large and rises direct from the plain 236 feet. 
There are staircases leading to the top. We passed 
a temple, on our way up, in which Hindoo ser¬ 
vices were being conducted, there was a lec¬ 
ture or sermon going on. We stopped again at 
a tine pavilion from whence there is a great view 
of a widely extended plain and off to high hills in 
the distance. Lord Clive once commanded here, 
and here Bishop Heber died. Clive’s house is 
shown still, as well as the residence of Bishop 
Heber. Our guide was another Christian who did 
not tipple, but smoked the Trichinopoly cigars, for 
which the place is celebrated ; his name was Daniel, 
and he informed us that these cigars are sold at two 
rupees a hundred, equal at present rate of exchange 
to about fifty cents of our money, and they are very 
good. On our return we passed within two miles of 
the grave of Heber, but as our time was limited we 


CORRIDOR OF HINDOO TEMPRE, SOUTHERN INDIA. 



































































































































































MADRAS. 


67 


did not visit it. We would have liked to remain 
longer at this place, but as we were to sail next 
day we could not tarry. We saw the pagoda of 
the great temple at Tanjore as we arrived there 
at twilight, it is two hundred feet high. We were 
sorry to pass this place without stopping, for many 
think this temple the finest in Southern India. 
After seeing these great religious edifices of Tan¬ 
jore, Trichinopoly and Madura, the native Hindoo 
temples of Northern India seem small and feeble. 
We got a very good general view of Madras, but 
spent only a few hours there. We had our first 
bullock-cart experience here in the transport of 
our baggage to the harbor. These animals are very 
well trained, and can go at a good trot; I had a 
race with a pair of them afterwards at Calcutta, 
and was much surprised to see the enterprising 
little fellows keep up with my two-horse gharry 
for a lon<r time. These are the so-called sacred 

O 

animals, are of light color and have a small hump 
over the shoulders. Madras has no natural harbor, 
only a roadstead, and it used to be a dangerous place 
for a vessel to lie, and a nasty one to land at in a 
boat. But now they have made breakwaters of stone 
to keep off the swell of the ocean. Even now, how¬ 
ever, we were obliged to be carried on two men’s 
shoulders and dumped in the boat or barge, which 


68 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


stood five feet out of the water. These barges are 
large enough to carry tons of freight, are made of 
heavy pieces of wood, yet entirely without nails or 
iron—actually sewed together with cocoa fibre. It 
seems hardly credible, yet is very true, and they 
do not leak much either. I was told all the freight 
coming to this very important port was transported 
to and from the steamers and sailing ships in these 
tailor-made boats. Madras has about 450,000 peo¬ 
ple, being the third city in India, Calcutta and 
Bombay being first and second. 


BENGAL VILLAGE 

























MADRAS TO CALCUTTA. 


H9 


CHAPTER Y. 

The steamer Eridan, of the French Messageries 
Line, we found comfortable and fairly speedy, 325 
miles a day. We arrived at the mouth of the 
Hugli the second day from Madras at dark. Our 
steamer carried a first-class pilot all the time, a 
jolly fellow, whose sole duty it is to take his boat 
up and down the 120 miles of the dangerous 
navigation of the Hugli. For the remainder of his 
trip each way to and from Colombo he may sleep, 
game or read, as suits him; but he is always there 
to mount the bridge for the river trip, which is a 
very dangerous one, and he gets a judge’s salary. 
The river is treacherous to a degree. We saw the 
top-masts of a great ocean steamer standing up in 
the air, all else being in the water and quicksand. 
The danger of touching at all is great, for the 
ships often slip into the sand and turn over in a 
very few minutes. They tell of such an occurence 
happening in which the crew and passengers all 
stepped off over the side except three engineers 
who were asleep below and were awakened by the 
incoming water; they got to the open ports in the 
side where they could lookout and be seen but 


70 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


could not get through; one of them went back 
into the water in the ship and managed to find his 
way out through it, but the two other poor fellows 
were drowned before the eyes of the distressed spec¬ 
tators who could do nothing for them. The greatest 
danger occurs when the river is full in the rainy 
season. We had to lie all night at anchor and until 
the tide was right next morning, and did not ar¬ 
rive at Calcutta until 4 :30 o’clock in the afternoon. 
Then there was a lush of all sorts of people on 
board at once, among them friends of those who 
were just returning from Europe, and howling 
boatmen, who, with the coolies and gharry men, 
are a great nuisance. These people seem to think 
loud talk necessary in common conversation, and 
many times at railroad stations and hotels we 
have had night made unpleasant by their loud 
voices. But one must use them, and some are 
very valuable. We had a double experience in 
servants; our first one we got at Cook’s in Calcutta, 
and took him for his wise appearance, but he was 
as slow a follower of the Mecca Prophet as I ever 
saw, and on our return from Darjeeling we dropped 
him, much to his chagrin, but really he did little 
but halloo at railroad stations for coolies, which si«- 
nal would bring five or six, each to grab a bundle, 
however small, and all wanted to be paid as much 



HINDOO GIRD. 





















CALCUTTA. 


71 


as if each had a load and our man merely over¬ 
looked the job. These people are not very strong, 
it took four to handle one trunk: but their strong 
point is headwork, for after the four had got it on 
one man’s head he seemed to walk off with it easily, 
though it weighed 170 pounds. Our next servant was 
a young Madras chap, a Christian, as black as char¬ 
coal,but he was quick and serviceable,always on hand, 
a treasure of a servant and interpreter, for he 
he knew English well. He went with us all the way 
to Bombay, but we left him very ill with fever; he 
promised me to go to a doctor and I gave him ten 
rupees for that purpose. I urged him rather, to go to 
a hospital, but he did neither, and came around the 
night before we left, looking badly. But I have 
wandered from Calcutta. It is a great city, has some 
850,000 people with many fine buildings for public 
use; and a great park called the Maidan, right in 
the center of the city that reaches down to the 
river and is one and a half miles in diameter, holding 
in its limits, Fort William (a strong earth work), a 
hospital, government house, many statues of dis¬ 
tinguished Anglo Indians, both stone and bronze, 
and a part is laid out in what is called the Eden 
Gardens. It seems remarkable to find a public 
park directly in front of the business portion of a 
great city and on its principal avenue of commerce, 


72 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


a great river. They have a council house, also a 
university building, etc. One of the most inter¬ 
esting places we saw was the museum, an im¬ 
mense building, fronting on the Maidan, contain¬ 
ing a fine collection of archaelogical remains of 
very great interest, also of defunct animals and 
fish, including a mammoth from our own country. 
It hurt my feelings to see a few years since in the 
British Museum at Kensington a magnificent mam¬ 
moth nearly perfect from Bates County, Missouri, 
and now another here in far off India, and none 
that I know of in America to compare with them in 
perfection. Besides the foregoing, they have here 
a great and fine collection of minerals, snakes in 
spirits, and fish, with fine specimens of the various 
manufactures of India, also models and pictures of 
the multitudinous races, tribes and clans which 
live here. It is by far the best museum in India. 
There is also, six miles below the city, a fine 
botanical garden, celebrated especially among other 
things, for its great banian tree, over 1000 feet in 
circumference, a veritable forest by itself, the 
most remarkable of its kind in India. This garden 
has 272 acres and a frontage of a mile on the 
Hugli River. It does not surpass the Ceylon Gar¬ 
den at Peradeniya except in size, so we thought. 
We left Calcutta one afternoon for Darjeeling, in the 






















































































































































TOWARD THE HIMALAYAS. 


73 


Himalayas, riding for some 120 miles through a level 
country until we reached the Ganges at Damookdea 
station, where we took the steamer for Sara Ghat on 
the opposite side ; during the passage of twenty min¬ 
utes we dined. No bridge can be built here, they say, 
on account of the changing channel. We sped on all 
night until dawn, when we reached Silliguri, 392 
miles from Calcutta, where we changed cars to a 
two-foot gauge road of fifty miles length. Our 
change at the Ganges was to a metre gauge from 
a wide one ; on this road it was from the metre, 39 4 / 10 
inches, to two feet. We ascended to a height 
of 7,400 feet almost immediately, as our changing 
place was but a few hundred feet above the sea. 
For the first few miles we ascended slowly, but then 
began to climb rapidly by the most remarkable run¬ 
ning up on the sides of hills,around them, and across 
ridges, ascending by what is called switch 
backs, like this by which, going to right and 

left, rising all the time, we surmounted great and 
difficult heights; in one place there were four 
tracks, one rising above the other. Thus we went 
on for six hours, with constant beautiful changes 
of scenery, with lovely views of gorges, valleys, 
trees, tea plantations and houses. Very much 
tea is grown about these hills, as they call them. We 
would think a height of 7,400 feet to be among the 


74 


A TRIP AROUND TIIIO WORLD. 


mountains, but the English talk of going up here to 
the hills. Tea grows clear up to 7,000 feet alti¬ 
tude at and near Darjeeling. Finally, after con¬ 
stant pleasure during the last forty miles, we 
reached our terminus at four o’clock in the after¬ 
noon, and were soon housed in the charming 
Woodland Hotel, only three minutes walk up the 
hill from the depot and almost over it. We never 
tired of the view from this spot, our porch and 
room dominated the town, and the whole lvin- 
chinjanga range of snow clad mountains forty-live 
miles away; by night or day the view was grand. 
Roaming about in the afternoon we saw the Mon- 
golian cast of features, for we were on the border of 
Thibet and Bhutan, the slanting eyes and appear¬ 
ance of activity and thought indicated a different 
race from the effeminate and more languid looking 
people of Bengal. The delightful air and charming 
views are the great attraction here, and it is really 
a sanitarium, not only for the wealthy English 
below but for the troops, for whom there is a 
great hospital. At six o’clock next morning we 
started for Senchal, a high point from which the 
great Mt. Everest can be seen. It was a six-mile 
ride and the morning was very cold and frosty, 
but we made it in about an hour and were well 
rewarded, for it was clear and we got a view of 


ATHERING TEA, DAkJEKI.IXl 























1> UMKKUNd. 


< .) 


the top of Everest; it seemed only a little bit, as 
it was 120 miles away, but it shone brightly in 
the sun with its silver crown of snow. But the 
greatest charm was Ivinchinjanga, the whole snow 
covered range came out gloriously for us and we 
felt well paid for our early awakening and trip. 
We wended our way down to and through the 
little native village of (loom, 7,400 feet above the 
sea, and so on to our hotel, to breakfast, very happy 
that we were so fortunate, for frequently the moun¬ 
tains are veiled for days. After breakfast we went 
about town and its vicinity, sometimes on foot and 
sometimes on pony-back; the rides are very line, 
because one has always charming views and scenery. 
There is a village of Bhutans close by which we 
visited; it had very little attraction. We entered 
the Buddhist temple, when the priest began to turn 
a large prayer wheel while another rang a bell for 
our entertainment. They offered to sell us a brass 
wheel with a long prayer on it. Their devotions 
suddenly ceased when we had given the expected 
fee. There is a small park in which a peculiar 
cedar, unlike any I have ever seen, is abundant. The 
most interesting place in the town is a square in 
which is held a kind of market and exchange; here 
is sold almost everything; the money brokers 
and lenders have their silver coin lying right on 


7f) A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 

the ground on a cloth or a board; various 
coins are sold here and money loaned. But 
next morning we again took our chair scats 
iu an open car for a descent to the sea level, but 
found the air cooler than on the trip up. At 
Kurseong, 4,390 feet above the sea, we saw ice 
taken from the water cooler (a porous earthen¬ 
ware jar three-fourths of an inch thick), that was 
frozen during the night. It would not have 

O kD 

frozen in the open air, I think, as these vessels 
produce a lower temperature than the surrounding 
air from rapid evaporation. 

Our ride down was as pleasant as the one up. 
The great tea plantations show everywhere. The 
natives get four rupees a month for women and 
five for men and no eight hour law. The planter 
who told me this said they were perfectly content 
unless rice got high and then they had to be given 
aid. A rupee is now about twenty-seven cents 
gold value, and forty-eight in silver. No wonder 
tea is cheap. 

Next morning we were again in Calcutta, where 
I found an invitation to lunch at a large mercantile 
house from a gentleman we met on the steamer 
from Madras. The concern is very old and does 
an extensive business. There were ten heads of 
the different departments, and they all seemed a 


Dxri MHf^VQ KOM.'I 30XVN V.tXvfx'IH^XIM 














































SILVER QUESTION TN INDIA. 77 

wide-awake, sensible lot of Englishmen. The 
house has a great standing in bank and commercial 
circles—Kilburn &Co. They seemed very much in¬ 
terested in the silver question and were exceedingly 
anxious for that metal’s restoration to former value. 
I told them the only way was to get England to join the 
other nations in fixing the ratio. The pressure is 
severe, especially on those having limited and 
fixed incomes. Many men in government services 
retiring on pensions and who have been looking 
forward for years to going home to end their 
days have to conclude to stay here for life, for 
their income being halved, they can not afford to 
live in England but have to remain here permanently, 
and so get houses up in the hill country at low cost. 
Of course, it is the same in civil life, as a man 
must have twice as much as formerly to support 
him. While coming down the mountain I met a 
brewer from near Kurseong who told me there 
were twelve large breweries in India and they sell 
beer and ale at about half English prices. On 
naming this to a fellow traveler and asking why 
so much English beer and ale was used, he said they 
did not consider the Indian liquor as clean as the 

English. But it is all faith at home or abroad. 
© 

In the afternoon we met our pleasant friends, 
Mr. Procter and family, of Williamstown, Mass. 


78 


A TRIP AROUND TIIE WORLD. 


We saw them first at Kobe, traveled with them on 
the steamer to Hong Kong, from whence we hap¬ 
pened to sail on the same ship to Colombo. We 
scarcely expected to see them again after 
leaving them in Ceylon, but we met sev¬ 
eral times afterward. We also met again 
our St. Louis friends, General Cole an d Maj or 
Pearce. They left home for a trip around the world 
a few days after us, going the other way. We saw 
them on our arrival at Calcutta and now bade them 
good-bye not to meet again until at St. Louis. 

At nine o’clock in the evening we were off by 
rail, for the sacred city of Benares running, as we 
could see, through a level plain country and were 
told by our room-mate in the car—an Englishman 
—that this was the character of the country away 
up to Lahore, some 1,300 miles. The great plains 
of India are a reality and immense in extent. We 
arrived at Benares for tiffin, and there took a guide, 
who claimed to be a very high caste Hindoo. We 
went first to the Monkey Temple. This is in reality 
a temple of Kali, or as she is sometimes called, 
Durga, one of the most bloodthirsty, vile and ob¬ 
scene of all the Hindoo mythology. They formerly 
made human sacrifices to her but that is not 
allowed now. Her shrine is set in a lar^e court 
and when the bell rings devotees kneel before the 


NATIVKS OF BHUTAN. 

























imago aud pray. Outside the platform of stone, on 
which is the shrine inclosing the image, is an open 
space some eight feet wide in which one can walk, 
then a stone platform and outside of it a wall 
some twenty feet high, with lots of monkeys 
about. We bought grain and rice cakes for 
them and distributed it, the fellows did not 
care for the grain, but greedily took the rice 
cakes. A crowd of begging priests and common 
beggars surrounded us and as the architecture was 
poor and we were not allowed to tease or amuse 
ourselves with the animals, we soon left and 
went to see a remarkable hermit who dwells in 
the garden of the Rajah of Amiti. He sits 
under a stone pavilion open on all sides and seems 
a zealous believer in the Brahminical faith, and 
will reason of righteousness and the judgment to 
come very fluently. lie seems to be highly en¬ 
dowed, was very pleasant, wears only one 
garment, and that a simple wide band of 
cotton. The Rajah furnishes him food and lie 
sleeps under the pavilion on the pavement. His 
life is so temperate that his wants arc few. He 
gave us a copy of his life story printed in English 
with portrait, and politely declined any remunera¬ 
tion. He readily consented to Charles taking his 
photograph with a kodak. The natives all consider 


8n 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


him a saint. We then rode through long streets 
to the river, took a boat and started along the 
shore to see the Ghats, which are rows of stone 
steps leading down to the water and into it. Many 
of them are quite wide. We passed along from 
one to another, noticing the people in boats, or 
bathing, until we came to the principal burning 
Ghat, where are consumed the larger part of the 
corpses cremated here. The afternoon is appar¬ 
ently chosen more especially for the purpose. We 
had passed a party of four on our way conveying a 
body. It rested on a very plain wooden trestle, 
simply clothed in white cotton. There were no 
other attendants or mourners. They proceeded at 
a rapid pace, singing or chanting in a sing song 
tone, some words the purport of which I did not 
learn. We saw many of them always going in the 
same way at a fast pace and with the same song or a 
similar one, but some had many followers who our 
guide said were relatives, as also were the bearers, 
and that the dead were always carried by relatives. 
They attract no notice in passing through the 
streets. On arriving at the Ghat the body is laid 
down near or more often partly in the water and 
preparations made for cremation. The wood is 
purchased and brought there, a pile made, the body 
put on it, more wood put over it, then it is slightly 



HINDOO HOl.Y MAN, 


hknakhs. 































C'HK.MATION AT HKNARES. 


Si 


sprinkled with the water of the Ganges, then oil is 
sprinkled on the wood and it is ready for ignition. 
Then the nearest relative must go to the fire agent, 
who is alone authorized to sell the sacred fire, 
which he gets in a sheaf of straw or reeds; he 
then walks five times around the pyre, each time 
touching it with the straw on the sides and ends, 
and finally liberating the sheaf it bursts into a 
blaze, and touching the pile repeatedly it is all soon 
burning. One then sits watching the fire, occa¬ 
sionally putting the brands up so as to be more 
effective, until the body is consumed, or nearly so, 
the intestines are often not entirely burned, and 
I saw one of these fellows when the fire was nearly 
ended, take a pole, stick it into the half destroyed 
abdomen, and throw the remains into the river 
right before our eyes for the fish. Our appetite 
for fish in India failed after this. At last the 
attendant puts water on the coals and throws the 
ashes in the Ganges. It is said the government 
helps pay the cost of cremating the poor Hindoos. 
The rich have plenty of wood and are usually well 
consumed, but the ashes must be thrown into 
the Ganges, for that is the great sacred puri¬ 
fier of body and soul. After the ashes are thus 
disposed of, they gather up with a screen all the 
floating coals for fuel. I saw quite a pile of 


82 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


this wet charcoal thus gathered, it having been 
screened to throw out the ashes. I saw six bodies 
lying there at once, one, with apink covering, which 
came with many mourners. It was just set down 
with feet in the water, two others were recently 
put on piles, and three were burning. We saw sev¬ 
eral fires lighted and went on shore and observed 
them closely that evening and again the next morn¬ 
ing. We rowed up the river the whole length of the 
Ghats, came back to our landing and then went to 
our hotel. All along the Ghats are tine and some¬ 
times expensive buildings, built by various Indian 
Rajahs for themselves and their children, who 
come here to die by the sacred river and be burned 
and their ashes thrown in to insure eternal happi¬ 
ness. These houses are placed on the bank 
directly overlooking and commanding a tine view 
of the river and adjacent country opposite. Next 
morning early we went again and took a boat, and 
passed up and down two miles in front of all the 
Ghats to see the immense crowd who were bath¬ 
ing. This bathing in the Ganges is especially 
holy, and morning is the holiest time, as the 
sun is near the horizon, just beneficently cast¬ 
ing his rays on man and nature. Sun worship 
seems to be all over the East—if not a fact, yet a 
thought, for 1 have seen the Shintoists and Budd- 


BURNING THE DEAD AT BENARES. 


























BATHING IN THE GANGES, BENARES. 


83 


hists in Japan bow to it at its first appearance, 
and here they made salaams to it and poured out 
libations to it as it arose opposite and across the 
river. I specially noticed an apparently wealthy 
woman. She came in a covered boat, landing right 
alongside where ours was temporarily located, with 
Wo servants. She was clothed in a light drapery 
nearly cream color with a yellow vine running up 
and down it. The cloth was fine and looked like 
silk, she had both gold and silver bangles on her 
ankles, and similar bracelets on her wrists. She 
walked off the boat carefully, her face almost cov¬ 
ered, went to the land over an intervening boat, 
then giving her overgarments to her servants, she 
stepped carefully down to the water and into it 
gradually deeper until about at the waist, then 
joined her hands at the sides, making thus a sort of 
cup, filled them with water from the river, looked 
at the sun, said a prayer or invocation and gradu¬ 
ally let the water run out over the ends of her 
fingers toward the east. This she did three times, 
then put some water in her mouth, stooped slowly 
down, submerging herself entirely three times, then 
gradually withdrew from the water, slowly went 
up the steps and had her servants slip dry gar¬ 
ments over her while adroitly dropping the wet 
ones so nicely that her person was not a bit ex- 


84 


A TRTP AROUND THE WORLD. 


posed. She then went off to the temples, I sup¬ 
pose, to finish her worship. She had a refined, 
genteel look, and was very dainty in all her move¬ 
ments, and I presume, was annoyed at my observ¬ 
ing her, especially her face, which the high caste 
Hindoo women as well as the Mahometans hide from 
the sight of men. There were two boats along¬ 
side of us, gotten up gorgeously, and our guide 
said they belonged to some Rajah, and that his 
ladies were inside. There were hundreds of men 
and low class women bathing all around, but few 
high caste women expose their faces at all. One 
may be sure that nearly all women whose faces 
he sees in the roads or streets are Pariahs or de¬ 
praved. I have seen common peasant women with 
breasts and face covered and abdomen partially 
exposed, going along the highway carrying loads 
on the head. We spent two hours in rowing up 
and down the river, seeing the great crowd from 
all parts of India; pilgrims come from remote 
parts of the country, hundreds of miles off, in great 
numbers, very many quite poor. They come with 
a bamboo pole over the shoulder, bearingat theends 
their meagre food, few dishes, and rags of 
clothing. They sleep by the roadside or on the 
floor at rest houses. As they came in town they 
struck up a song in a chanting manner and went 


BATHING GHAT, BENARES. 






















•I EV singh’s ohskrvatory. 


85 


directly to the river. There are very many of the 
city people who bathe here frequently and the 
varied colors of their clothes make a most strik¬ 
ing and effective display. Red in its varied shades, 
green, white, yellow and lavender predominate, 
and the scene was peculiar and interesting. All 
through India we saw the evident taste these 
dark-skinned people have for bright colors without 
regard to distinctions of caste, religion or condi¬ 
tion, and these vivid colors set off their dark faces 
nicely. With our clothing they would look sombre 
indeed. We saw many whom our guide called 
fakirs, and many priests, the former had ashes 
spread over their faces and some over their nearly 
naked bodies. Fakirs are not jugglers but religi¬ 
ous devotees; many of them are repulsively dirty, 
yet they live on the charity of the credulous be¬ 
lievers and get contributions of rice and pice (little 
monies) enough to keep them from starving. 
They rarely have any clothes save a loin cloth of 
coarse cotton. Many of the priests our guide 
pointed out to us had tine silk clothing. I suppose 
that morning there must have been nearly 3,000 
people bathing in the river. After leaving the 
boat we went on the top of a house belonging to 
the Rajah of Jeypore, where was an astronomical 
observatory, built many years ago by Jey Singh, 


8fi A TRTP AROUND THE WORLD. 

an ancestor of the present Rajah, who made many 
valuable observations from this roof, which was 
arranged specially for that purpose with stone sun 
dials, quadrants, circles, etc. He reformed the 
calendar and did other very valuable astronomical 
work. He had five different observatories in India. 
They are some 200 years old. We then went to 
the so-called Golden Temple. It is not large, has 
three domes, two of which are copper gilded. 
Most of the temples are small and look mean after 
Madura, Trichinopoly and Tanjore. Then we went 
to the so-called Well of Knowledge, supposed to 
be sacred from Vishnu having had something to 
do with it. We saw the top covered with flowers 
given by the faithful and thrown into the well. It 
is said that in summer their decay makes a dis¬ 
agreeable and unhealthy odor. We saw only from 
the edge of the platform as we were not holy 
enough to be allowed to look in close; all about 
it was wet and dirty. We went then to the Cow 
Temple where were housed in stone alcoves, around 
a court, many nice-looking cows. There was a 
shrine in the center. We had seen several of 
these animals lying and standing about the Ghats 
for some purpose connected with their worship. 
This temple was in fact nothing but a malodorous 
stable. The cows and bulls are very gentle things. 








































COW TEMPLE, BENARES. 


87 


But we fouud little difficulty in refusing backshish 
for such a sight. Some of these animals are very 
large and draw great loads. I don’t know where 
the distinction as to sacredness comes in, but those 
in the temple and on the Ghats were not large. 
All about this part of the town we had to go 
through narrow alleys, not more than six feet wide, 
and were crowded by not over-clean natives, and 
were finally pleased to get out into the open air. 
There are lots of so-called temples in Benares, but 
they are in the main only shrines. 


88 


A TRIP AROUND THU WORLD. 


CHAPTER VI. 

We went from Benares to Fyzabad and spent the 
night there, as we could not engage rooms at Luck¬ 
now owing to the races. At F. we saw the 
mausoleum or tomb of the Babu Begum, the great 
lady spoken of by Sheridan in his speech 
against Warren Hastings, as having been badly 
treated by that great man. It is an imitation of 
the Taj of Agra, but a far off one. It is the 
finest, however, in all the Province of Oudh, and 
in our country it would be thought very remark¬ 
able, and deservedly so, for its design and extent, 
and would draw thousands to see it. It is 140 feet 
high and from the top there is a fine view of the 
country, a great plain. 

The mausoleum is placed in a large enclosed gar¬ 
den, and nearby is the tomb of the Begum’s husband 
not so fine. This we visited next morning, passing 
through the town and by many monkeys on houses 
and fences and in the streets; no one molests them, 
but many feed them; they are to a certain extent 
sacred being under protection of the monkey god. 
We arrived at Lucknow at ten o’clock in the morning 

O 

and were fortunate enough to get the only two 
vacant rooms at the Royal Hotel. We went out 


UPPER PART OF TOMB OF I’TIMADU-DAUUH, AGRA. 














































































soon to see the place so ably defended during the 
mutiny, The Residency. This was the residence 
of the English commander of the post, a large 
brick establishment with houses adjoining, suf¬ 
ficient for a high official with his retinue. It 
seems remarkable that this establishment should 
have accommodated 1,000 men, women and children 
during the siege; 326 of the two last were housed 
in a large cellar for safety. The mutiny commenced 
in May, 1857, and the final and complete relief was 
not effected until November 17th, although Have¬ 
lock arrived on August 25th and strongly rein¬ 
forced the defenders. All this long time the English 
troops were dying in battle, or of wounds and sick¬ 
ness, but there was no other way than to fight to 
the end, for Nana Sahib was a brute and wholly 
without honor, as his conduct atCawnpore showed. 
Wesaw the room where General Lawrence was shot; 
while writing an order he was struck by a piece of 
shell. What a horrible time for the men who fought 
and the women and children who were thus so 
long besieged ! The cemetery with its 2,000 dead of 
the mutiny tells the terrible tale. I do not 
wonder that when the long fight was over, and many 
of the faithless Sepoys were in their power, with 
the horrid memories of Cawnpore and the strug¬ 
gles at Lucknow, to say nothing of the many mur- 


90 


A TRIP AROUND TIIU WORLD. 


tiers of officers everywhere by these native troops, in 
mind, that there was a summary and terrible ven¬ 
geance. Hanging is a terrible death to a Hindoo, as 
he thinks his soul must depart from his body in an im¬ 
pure direction, alsobeingtorn to piecesfrom the can¬ 
non’s mouth is equally degrading, so these two 
methods of punishment were adopted as a lasting 
lesson. We may think it cruel, but I am sure in their 
place, we would have done the same. Neither do I 
much blame the brave Twelfth and Ninety-third 
Highlanders and the Fourth Sikh Regiment who 
broke into the SikandaraBagh (Alexander Garden) 
and left none alive of the 2,000 Sepoys there. 
We saw the spot. It is still as then, a large garden, 
surrounded by a wall twenty feet high, and but a 
short distance from the residency—a mile or so. 
It occurred just after the relief of Lucknow. The 
Sepoys rushed in there, thinking to go out by 
another gate, but there was none. They tried to 
shut the one they went in at, but three white 
officers and a loyal native one got in, followed by 
their soldiers, and made a finish of t ie mutineers. 
The great Imambarah and tomb of Asafu Daulah 
is very peculiar and striking, built at a cost of 
$5,000,000; also, a great and fine mosque and the 
tomb of Hussain, in a square with a water reservoir, 
and the palace of General Martin, the son of a French 


JUMMA MUSJII) OR GREAT MOSQUE, AGRA 



































FORTUNE MAKING IN INDIA. 91 

cooper, who rose to great importance and wealth, first 
rising to rank of Captain in the British army, and 
afterwards entering the service of the Nawab of 
Oudh. It has a great lake (artificial) in front, 
with a high tower in the center, and it is said 
there was a subterranean and subaqueous passage 
from palace to tower. It is a very singular and 
striking building and is now used for a boys’ school 
or academy. It was easy in those old days to 
obtain a fortune in India if one had the favor of a 
native Prince or a fortunate place in the army, but 
the trees that were loaded with golden mohurs or 
lakhs of silver rupees, have been so often and thor¬ 
oughly shaken that few or none now remain on the 
branches, and the days when young men and boys 
went out as clerks and after a few years came back 
to England with great fortunes are long since 
passed. The accumulation of money there now, is 
slow, and only by careful attention to trade, with 
moderate gains as the result. There is a fine club 
house near there containing portraits of a great many 
Rajahs and Nawabs. We had an extensive view of 
the country from the Great Imambarah. There are 
trees scattered everywhere, and the landscape is 
very pleasing, just as it has been all along, but 
quite level. Everywhere through the country we 
noticed trees growing along the roads and many scat- 


92 


A TRTP AROUND THE WORLD. 


tering ones in fields. But twenty-four hours was 
our allotment for Lucknow (too little) and we were 
off for Cawnpore. There we saw the fateful well, 
into which the rebel chief threw some 200 English, 
mainly women and children, the dying with the 
dead; and the Angel of the Resurrection statue 
over it Now it is the center of a well kept 
park. Then to the beautiful Memorial church, 
handsomely built and in fine condition, close to 
the little enclosed defense ground, where the 
fighting occurred, and which was so unten¬ 
able a position that the English were finally 
obliged to surrender. The boundaries are plainly 
marked out. Then we went to the Ghat where 
Nana fired on the surrendered English, men, women 
and children, taking the women for a fate worse 
than death and leaving only four men alive, who, 
escaping, told the horrid tale. There is a 
burning Ghat near here, across the Ganges, where 
corpses are cremated. I am sure this practice and 
the general use of the water for drinking purposes 
cause much of the illness among the natives. 
I asked Dr. Wilcox at Agra about it and 
he said enteric fever was the prevailing disease. 
But of late they are trying to stop the throwing of 
anything but ashes in the water the}^ say; although 
I saw no effort to prevent the impurities going in 


DKT.HI GATK OF FORT, AGRA. 

























WATER DRINKING IN INDIA. 


93 


at Benares. I was told, too, that they have now 
built waterworks in many of the cities and that 
great benefit has resulted to health and in diminu¬ 
tion of the death rate. But I never drank water in 
India except at Darjeeling and Mount Abou. Soda, 
beer and wine were our beverages, but we all 
would have preferred water if we could have se¬ 
cured it pure. We left the same evening for Agra, 
arriving at midnight, and next morning as soon as we 
could get a little breakfast (chota hazri) and were 
refreshed generallv, we were off for the celebrated 
fort, which is a great and very strong enclosure of 
stone on a commanding place overlooking the Jumna 
River. It is surrounded by a great moat and con- 
tains some remarkable structures. The Pearl 
M< isque, the first tine building one sees, is made 
entirely of white marble, in Saracenic style, with a 
great court and tank in the center; then the palace, 
with its great and little audience chambers, Diwan- 
i-am and Diwau-i-Khas, the one public and the other 
private; then the various apartments for the Em¬ 
peror and his various Queens, the place fora great 
game of chess or draughts, where real men stood 
for kings, queens, castles, pawns, etc.; then a 
great artificial pond, enclosed by marble walls, for 
the ladies to fish in ; a bazaar for women to come at 
stated times to sell things to the harem, no men 


94 


A TRIP AROUND TIIIO WORLD. 


being allowed to see them; the lovely Jasmine Tow¬ 
er, from which Shah Jehan could look a mile away 
across the river to his wonderful Taj and see 
where his favorite Queen lay in imperial state sleep¬ 
ing her last sleep; then there were the rooms for 
the Hindoo Queen, a most extensive suite, all of 
red sandstone, beautifully carved, the apartments 
for the Mohammedan Queens being of white mar¬ 
ble; one can hardly describe the strange and won¬ 
derfully luxurious rooms, halls, courts, etc., in this 
palace fort. We spent three hours going through 
it and came back another day, and would gladly 
have made repeated visits had we remained longer. 
In the main the marblepartisingood condition ; the 
red sandstone has not stood so well. They made 
restorations of parts of several rooms lo show 
the Prince of Wales what it was in its per¬ 
fection. It Avas injured by Shah Jehan’s son, 
A\ T ho hated the Hindoo religion, and considering 
the 240 years since Shah Jehan built the marble 
part, its preservation in such beauty is remarkable. 
By a strange fate he Avas shut up in a small room 
about 8x12, in this palace, by his son Aurungzeb, 
under pretense that he Avas insane and Avasting the 
revenues of his kingdom in building. He spent in 
this way many millions of pounds sterling, the 
Taj alone having cost, it is said, over £2,000,000, 


TOMB OF I TIMAIH'-DAIT.AH, AGRA. 







































i’timadu-daulah’s tomb. 


9o 


or $10,000,000, and when one thinks what this is 
in a country where men work for a very few 
cents a day and that thousands worked with¬ 
out pay on it, they being forced so to do, it 
can easily be seen that this was an immense 
outlay on a tomb for a favorite Queen. But the 
world will always thank him for it. We drove in 
the afternoon to Sikandara, seven miles out, to see 
the tomb of Akbar, a very remarkable affair in¬ 
deed; in fact, if there was no Taj it would be won¬ 
derful. It is made of sandstone inlaid with white 
marble, and is of great size, and has three magnificent 
gateways. The tomb is on the top and the view from 
there very extensive,taking in all Agra and far beyond 
it. It is a continuance of the great plain we 
had seen all the way from Calcutta, interspersed 
with trees just as it is away up to Lahore, and I 
don'tknowhowmuch farther; goingsouthwestfrom 
Delhi one sees hills and some mountains, but they 
are west and south, and far off. We rode back to town 
and across the river to see the wonderful tomb of 
Ftimadu Daulah, or Ghavas Beg, Treasurer of Em¬ 
peror Jehangir. It is of white marble beautifully 
inlaid with flowers made of precious stones and 
fine colored marbles, in a style similar to the Taj, 
the whole work being of marvelous fiueness, nearly 
equal to that of the Taj, but the proportions and 


A TRIP AROUND TIIE WORLD. 


<)(> 

grandeur of design are much inferior; yet, if it 
was in our country we would enclose it in a glass 
case to keep the frost from destroying it, and all 
of our 70,000,000 people would come to see it. 
None of these great works could last with us, the 
ever-destroying frost would put in its many wedges 
and gradually tear them down. Here it never 
freezes. After dinner, at 9 :30 p. m., by moonlight, 
we rode out to have our first view of the Taj Mahal, 
the sky was cloudless and the moon full; the won¬ 
derful marble structure shone in the light like a 
fairy creation. We approached through a mag¬ 
nificent gateway of proportions almost as grand 
astheTaj, of red sandstone, ahundred feet in height 
with white marble inlaid work. There are two 
pavements lined with funereal evergreens, flanked 
by deciduous trees and flowering plants. In the 
center between the two pavements is a long basin 
filled with water; it runs the whole distance to the 
Taj, some 800 feet, except that it is broken in the 
center by a cross platform for some thirty feet, 
which is four or five feet high, and on which is a basin 
running across and filled with gold and silver fish; 
frecpient fountain jets can be set spouting into these 
basins; there are seats at the side of the cross 
basin from which one can enjoy the view of the 
Taj and garden. Passing along, you come to the 


VH‘)V “'I VH VIM fyj 








































































first platform on which rests the beginning of 
the foundation of the great building. It is of 
red sandstone some 440 feet wide and say six feet 
high above the ground; on one side is a large 
moscjue of the same material and inlaid with marble, 
and on the opposite side is a similar building, 
not used as a mosque, but built to correspond and 
for symmetry. In the center of the platform rises 
another platform of marble equi-distant from the 
sides and 18 feet high, 313 feet square, with a 
white marble minaret on each corner 133 feet high. 
The Taj stands in the center of this platform, a 
miracle of art, which never will be equaled or 
repeated; it cannot be described; the exterior is 
grand and beautiful and the interior is marvelous 
for its fine proportions, exquisite marble carvings 
and lovely ornamentation, set in flowers of charm¬ 
ing patterns and lovely colors in precious stones, 
turquoises, rubies and diamonds ; some, immensely 
valuable, were stolen, but the greater part still 
are there and the loss does not show very 
much except in the tomb below ground. The 
building is peerless. We descended into the room 
below, where the real tomb is situated and which, 
before it was robbed was far richer in ornament 
and jewels than the cenotaph above. The original 
doors were of silver, and were also stolen by the 


98 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


Mahrattas, but they can be spared. We roamed 
around, thinking this fairy dream might vanish, 
so ethereal and lovely it seemed, and finally went 
back to our hotel to dream of it and to forever 
feel that the wonders of this palace tomb had 
not been exaggerated. I paid two other visits to 
it, both in the afternoon, and lost none of my 
admiration for it. On the rear the walls rise 
directly from the river Jumna, and the Taj 
at its top is 240 feet above it. Seventeen 
miles from Agra is the very remarkable city of 
Futtehpore Sikra, once the capital of the Mogul 
Empire. It was built by the great Akbar on 
account of a holy Mussulman anchorite, named 
Selim Chisti, who lived there in a cavern and to 
whom he was very much attached. Here in a 
desert, far from water, was a great city built with 
splendid palaces, great mosques and other fine 
buildings, to say nothing of the houses of a less 
pretentious character. After the death of the holy 
man, a tomb was constructed for him, fit for an 
emperor. When, however, he was gone, Akbar 
began to see that the place was unsuitable for so 
important a metropolis and in 1584 abandoned 
it for a new location at the present city of Agra, 
where the Jumna gives always a supply of 
water for man and beast. Here arose the most 


THK l'AXCH MAH A I,, FITTFHPORE SIKRA. 




















FUTTEHPORE SIKRA. 


99 

remarkable city of India, considering its various 
tombs, fort, etc., which, however, in these attract¬ 
ive respects is mainly due to Akbar’s successors. 
Many of the former great attractions of Futtehpore 
Sikra are more or less in ruins, but the most im¬ 
portant buildings yet remain to amply repay a 
long journey to visit. They are now guarded by 
English soldiers and it is to be hoped may be care¬ 
fully preserved for many years. The architecture 
is fine; similar in many respects to much of the 
finest work in Agra and Delhi, but some peculiar 
and different. The Sultana’s Pavilion with its 
large marble basin filled with water for bathing, 
etc., entered by stone steps, the Panch Mahal, a 
fanciful construction of five stories, each receding 
from the other like enormous steps (see picture) 
it is said, was a child’s play-house. Then the 
mosque and mausoleum of Selim Chisti, both very 
beautiful, and there are several chapels besides, 
near the mosque. Some of the descendants of the 
saint are yet in charge of his tomb and receive pay, 
from money left hundreds of years ago for the 
purpose. A strange city is Futtehpore Sikra. 

We went from Agra to Delhi regretfully, 
although the latter is also a place of surpassing inter¬ 
est among the cities of the world. It too, has a fort 
with a great name in history, noted first for its 


100 


A TRIP AROUND TIIE WORLD. 


capture by the rebels in 1857 and the gallantry of 
the English troops in its recapture, and secondly, 
because, although not so interesting for the interior 
as that of Agra, it contains some lovely buildings, 
built by Shah Jchan, especially the palace, of 
which much was destroyed, but there still remains 
the grand Public Reception Hall or Diwan-i-Am 
of great size, made of red sandstone, and supported 
by many pillars. It has in the center against the 
wall a fine throne of marble, raised about ten feet 
from the floor, with beautiful figures of birds, etc. 
in mosaic of fine-colored precious stones, and 
carvings behind and around it of stone. This hall 
is open on three sides as is also the great Audience 
Hall at Agra, so too the Pearl Mosque at Agra is 
open in front and, in fact, all the fine mosques we 
saw were so open always, for there is no cold here 
to require closed rooms, and so if the sermon 
is long, one can slip out without disturbing 
the faithful, but their worship is short and gener¬ 
ally, I think, without much preaching, although I 
was told the mollahs sometimes preach. The 
private Hall of Audience or Diwan-i-Khas of the 
Palace is beautifully made of white marble and 
ornamented with gilt in charming patterns, and is 
open on all sides. It overlooks the Jumna River 
in the rear. It was of this room and location that 



MARBIyK SCREEN, QUEEN’S APARTMENTS, DEEHI. 

















































DIWAN-I-KIIAS, DELHI. 


101 


it was said by the Persian poet and inscribed on its 
walls: 

“If on earth there be an Eden of bliss, 

It is this, it is this, none but this.” 

Adjoining are beautiful marble baths, and on 
the opposite side of the Diwan-i-Khas are the 
women’s apartments. They are very beautiful. 
All these buildings are of white marble, and are 
only a part of the magnificent palace once there. 
What a grand pageant it must have been when the 
emperor was there in all his glory on the Golden 
Peacock throne, himself all gorgeously attired in 
silk and gold, adorned with diamonds, sapphires, 
rubies and emeralds, the peacocks of golden bodies 
with imitation of feathers in precious stones, a 
parrot carved from a single great emerald sus¬ 
pended overhead! Then fancy the magnificence 
of the courtiers composing the assembly in their 
gorgeous apparel! 

But this great monarch was shut up in a narrow 
room to die, and nearly a 100 years later (in 1730) 
came the Persian Nadir Shah and after massacring 
a vast number of the people, carried off this throne 
and an immense wealth of gold and jewels, esti¬ 
mated to have been worth from £30,000,000 to 
£70,000,000, the peacock throne alone being of 
£(>,000,000 value. Among the trophies was the 


102 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


Koh-i-noor. We ought to be thankful that they 
did not destroy these beautiful buildings. 

At 1:30 p. m. we went to the Jumma Musjid 
—Great Mosque—celebrated as being the largest 
in the world ever built for that purpose—St. Sophia 
having been built for a church. We were not 
allowed to go into the open court even; not to 
speak of entering the Mosque itself, as worship 
was about to commence. We were shown into a 
tower at the entrance, from which we walked along 
a roof over cloisters opening inwards, around to 
the main entrance tower, directly opposite the open 
mosque, from which we saw everything perfectly, 
although the front of it was some 250 feet away. 
There was a square tank in the center of the open 
court tilled with water always running, each of 
the worshippers, as they came in, went to it, washed 
hands and feet, and then walked barefooted to 
pray. The Mosque itself was first filled, the floor 
being divided into spaces marked by white marble 
centers, outlined with black. These were about 
2K feet by 5 feet each space intended for a wor¬ 
shipper. When the mosque was filled they formed 
in corresponding lines in the court in front of it 
and many were in the cloisters, all looking 
in the same way at once, and from time to time 
bowed to the pavement, touched it with their fore- 


PRAYING AT THE JEMMA MUSJID, DKUII. 






















































































































































JUMMA MUS.TID, DELHI. 


103 


heads, then again half rose to a sitting posture, 
again bowed, then arose to their feet and went 
again through the same inclinations as the words 
of the Mollah inside, repeated by others in front 
near the steps, indicated, those not hearing acted in 
concert either from knowing what was to be done 
or from example. The mosque proper is 201 feet 
long by 120 broad, so I estimate there were over 
2,100 inside and there must have been as many out 
in the court and cloisters, and yet a vast space was 
unoccupied. After some twenty minutes they began 
to rise and move away. Many, however, remained 
bowed down, praying some minutes longer. A 
little later we saw a bed or a bier with a sick or 
dead person lying on it, brought to the tank. The 
chief Priest or Mollah came out and stood by its 
side, and next the water, then there was a short 
service. I could not see what it was, owing to the 
intervening crowd. I judged it must have been 
sprinkling some of the holy water from the 
tank on the body or person. A green cloth 
was thrown over it. No other mosque I 
ever saw compares with this one for size, and 
while not such a gem as the Moti Musjid of Agra, 
yet its architecture is very grand and imposing; it 
is of red sandstone, with much inlaying of marble 
ornaments, the domes also are of white mar- 


104 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


ble, and the galleries in the gateways which are 
approached by grand flights of steps, and from 
which there are fine views of the country. There 
is another one at Indrapat—Kill’a Kona Mosque— 
very fine, and a grand one at Lahore, which resem¬ 
bles this, and both are great works of art, but this 
is the finest and largest. We paid another visit to 
it afterward and went all over, in and above the 
mosque, when, of course, there was no service. The 
enclosure is about 375 feet square, as I found it by 
pacing across one way; from the top is a fine view 
of the city and country, taking in the ruins of In¬ 
drapat and Ferozabad, adjacent, and reaching the 
great Koutub Minar, eleven miles away, that loom¬ 
ed up its 240 feet in air, and another pillar—Asoka’s 
—supposed to be much over 2,000 years old, was 
nearer in the same direction; its inscriptions arc 
laws, thus published; so,too, we could see Humay- 
un’stomb,a grand building, some three miles off ; in 
another direction was the fine monument to the 
memory of the heroes who fell in the mutiny war 
of 1857 near and at Delhi; then, the great 
town itself, with its 193,000 people, right 
around and below us. The view of the anxious 
devout crowd of Moslems in all colors, from plain 
white to glowing red, green, yellow, lavender 
and purple, made a panorama I shall never for- 


I'OMH OF THK KM PER Ok HCMAVI'X, DKKHI. 



















































England’s rule in india. 105 

get. Wonderful Agra! Wonderful Delhi! Two 
places can scarcely be found where more of 
interest centers, both in the remarkable present 
and the grand recollections of the past. How 
this land has been fought over and for; the waves 
of conquest have rolled over it time and again from 
the days of Cyrus and Alexander down through 
the times of Timour, the Moguls, the Mahrattas 
and Persians. The French tried to conquer India 
and failed. All their domain is lost to them save 
a little spot near Calcutta, and another at Pondi¬ 
cherry, where their flag finds room to float; they 
have given way, and the light-haired people of an 
island whose ancestors were savage when civiliza¬ 
tion and the arts existed here, have gradually more 
and more gained control, until practically the whole 
land from China and Siam on the east to the 
Arabian sea on the west, from Ceylon, the Bay 
of Bengal and the Indian ocean on the south to 
the great Himalayas in the north, is under their 
control, and it is, I believe, the best, and, on 
the whole, much the most just rule the land 
ever had, and yet, while admitting this to be 
true, it is said many of the natives would, if 
it were possible, gladly welcome a native reign, 
and those living where native Princes have rule 
and dominion—under watch and ultimate control 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


106 

of England, their suzerain—are very loyal to 
their native lords. 

\\ 7 e left Delhi (pronounced Del-le, not Del-hi) 
for Lahore at night, with similar feelings of 
regret as on our departure from Agra, arriv¬ 
ing there next morning at live, going directly 
to the hotel, and after a nice nap took a nine 
o’clock breakfast and then went out to see 
the city. First to the Fort, another Mogul 
erection of Shah Jehan; it has not nearly so 
many or so great attractions as Agra and Delhi. 
There is, however, a tine view of the surrounding 
country from it. There is a Pearl Mosque and a 
looking-glass room or rooms in which the walls 
and ceilings are covered with pieces of mirror 
glass; perhaps, originally, the effect might have 
been good, but now it has a tinsel look, but there 
is some tine marble lace work in it. There is also a 
good museum of arms in the Fort, which has some 
very rare and curious old pieces well worthy of 
preservation. In the distance, a mile and a half 
off, is Jehangir's tomb, but we did not go there. 
Opposite is the great Mosque I spoke of as ainon»' 
those next in importance to Delhi and Indrapat. 
It is very fine and pretty well kept up. In the 
tower, over the principal entrance, is kept (and 
shown for a consideration) with great care and 



MOU.AII OF JI'MMA MUSJII), I.AHDKK. 

























mahomet’s heard, Lahore. 


107 


reverence a remarkable relic, think of it, a hair of 
Mahomet’s beard. We went up stairs, an iron 
door was unlocked, then another, and there we 
saw the precious relic, a little bristly red hair. 
Near by, in the same case, were some other relics, 
some cotton cloth, supposed to have been part 
of his robe, a prayer carpet, green turban, etc. 
No doubt they edify the pious very much and are 
just as reliable and effective as the many thorns 
from the crown of our Savior, or bones of various 
saints. We were very much edified by an emphatic 
dissertation on Allah and Mahomet given us by an 
attending priest, of which we only understood “La 
Ilah ilia Allah, wa Mohammed Rasoul Allah” 
—God is God, and Mahomet is the prophet of 
God. But as our German Joanna said about 
Father Ryan, whom she went to hear, she did not 
understand him, but “he made it very good in the 
face.’’ But we found he wanted pay for his preach¬ 
ing (not an uncommon thing)—bakshish, every¬ 
body here in India wants it; the boy who brought 
our purchases from the store asked it; the washer¬ 
man wanted it in addition to his bill; the syce who, 
without our request, rode behind on our gharry, 
begged it; the driver from whom we hired the 
vehicle demanded it; the clerk with whom we dealt 
at a tailor shop wanted it. Bakshish is the best 


108 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


known word and the one most often used in India as 
it is in Egypt and Turkey. Even children cry for it. 

The Mosque is built much like the great Mosque 
of Delhi, at one end of a great square, with corri¬ 
dors on the sides extending to the tower gateway 
in front, and with a tank in the center filled with 
water. A little way off is a marble building, a sort of 
pavilion, built by Ranjit Singh ; the marble is said to 
have been stolen from the tombs of Emperor Jehangir 
and Empress Nur Jehan, at Shadara, near here. 

We enjoyed riding through the bazaars and 
streets of the native city. The houses have balconies 
and projecting or oriel windows ; many of these have 
fine plaster or stone lacework screens for windows, 
so the women can look out and see without being 
seen. We saw some who did not take advantage 
of the screens. There is here a very lar^e and 
fine museum containing specimens of the products, 
minerals and manufactures of the Punjab, besides 
many archadogical curiosities, also many specimens 
of pottery, etc. They have quite a large park here 
and a very fair zoological garden in it with many 
specimens of birds and animals, a lake or pond 
with many aquatic birds, and a large collection of 
monkeys. We saw one in a cage suddenly jump 
ten feet and snatch off the turban of a native; 
another grabbed a cane and after a struggle gained 


AMRITSAR. 


109 


possession of it; he then broke into a most up¬ 
roarious fit of laughter, but after a time he let 
the man have it again. Another, chained out¬ 
side on a little hill, would pick up and hurl 
back with great spirit stones thrown at him, 
as if he resented the insult as much as a 
nun. The native princes have given a great 
number, perhaps the most, of the specimens of 
lions, tigers, hyenas, etc. We were very glad we 
came up to Lahore, and if there had been time 
would have gone further, to Peshawar and the 
Khyber Pass. 

But next morning we left for Amritsar, the 
favorite city and former capital of the Sikhs 
when they were a people with a government 
of their own. Here is the golden temple of 
their faith, which is peculiar, and arose through an 
effort by a Mussulman to convert the Hindoos from 
idolatry to monotheism, but they are not at all 
Mahometan; they have a book called the Granth, 
which is their Bible, and is listened to with great 
reverence. At one time their ruler, for they had 
a civil as well as spiritual head, had a great army 
of 72,000 men, and ruled a large country; this was 
Ranjit Singh, but finally his successor quarreled 
with the English and murdered some of their 
envoys, which was the cause of wars which, in 1849, 


110 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


brought the whole Sikh part of the Punjab into 
the control of the English. Their religion origi¬ 
nated about A. D. 1500. The men are larger than 
East Indians generally, and are much trusted by 
the English. 

The temple is situated in a large artificial 
lake or tank in the center of the city. One 
walks out to it over a causeway of marble and 
finds the priest sitting at one side reading from 
the Granth and receiving gifts. He sent us each 
a little sugar cup, for which he expected a rupee. 
We went upstairs on the roof; all about there 
is finely gilded; we did not see their treasures, 
but did see the silver doors, not solid, but of thick, 
heavy sheet plate. The lower part of the temple, 
say some fifteen or eighteen feet high, is of white 
marble, but all above is gilded heavily, and the 
general appearance is quite effective, as it gives its 
golden reflection in the water which tills a space 
470 feet square. The causeway leading to the 
temple is about 200 feet long and the temple 
is only 65 feet wide. There are fine houses, 
called bungahs, in front, owned by great Sikh 
chiefs who come here from time to time to stop 
and worship awhile; then also a great tower con¬ 
nected with the temple, on shore, and a garden of 
thirty acres; in the trees in it, hanging by their 


THE GOLDEN TEMPLE, AMRITSAR. 





























FLYING FOXES, AMRITSAR. 


Ill 


toes, are multitudes of the flying foxes I spoke of 
as first seeing at Madura. We were asked to take 
off our shoes before ascending the tower, but as we 
had already done that before going into the temple, 
and finding it inconvenient to thus lace and unlace, 
we declined, and went instead upon a minaret near 
by, just as high, where we got a charming view of 
city and country. We could look right down into 
the houses and courts about us, and saw many 
people on the housetops enjoying the air. One 
must be in the East to realize the sleeping on 
housetops spoken of in the Bible, “ Let him that 
is on the housetop not come down,” especially in 
a summer night. Almost all houses have fiat 
roofs, and in the heat of summer it is by far the 
pleasantest place to sleep. 

We were harrassed by fellows who wished 
to sell us the various stuffs made here and 
north and east of here in Persia, Cashmere, 
Bokhara, etc. They just chased us down, 
hung on our carriage, and when put off, fol¬ 
lowed, each denouncing the others as cheats. 
We did not visit any of them, as our time was too 
short, but we did go into a great carpet factory of 
Sahei Chumba Mull, 1,750 feet long, where were 
a multitude of boys, sometimes four to six at a 
single loom, weaving the so-called Persian carpets. 


112 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


The looms are ranged side by side in the narrow 
building with a lane or passage at the side 
running its whole length. The work is 
quite interesting; they simply follow the pattern, 
but it takes an immense deal of training to fit them 
for the work. We saw carpets and rugs from 12 
rupees per square yard to 100, say from $(> 
to $50 in silver. The latter was made, the warp 
of red silk and the filling of the fine Cashmere 
goat’s wool. I fancied this one, and would have 
liked one, three by six feet, but the fat old pro¬ 
prietor told me it would take two years to make 
it, and I was not willing to wait that long; but it 
was beautiful. He had an immense variety of 
patterns. The price varies with the value of the 
materials, the highest price being for the Cash- 
mere goat’s wool. They also had lovely Cashmere 
shawls from 1,000 to 1,200 rupees, of beautiful 
patterns, asfine as I once saw at A. T. Stewart’sfor 
$1,200. But they are not worn as much in Europe 
and America now as formerly. Also there were 
lovely plain white ones from 50 to 250 rupees, 
depending on size and fineness of the goat’s wool; 
some were very ethereal and lovely in fineness and 
softness. We had much pleasure in seeing this 
establishment. There is a monument to the 
Empress Queen Victoria here overlooking the 


SIKH SOLDIERS. 


113 

temple, gardens, towers, etc. These Sikhs were 
very loyal to the English during the mutiny, and 
with the little Ghoorkas stood by them all 
through the war. If they had gone off and 
fought with the Nana, one can hardly say 
what would have happened, but they shed 
their blood as freely and fought as bravely as 
the white men. This was in part because of 
the tolerance with which the English treated them 
in their religious worship and because their recol¬ 
lection of Mahometan and native rulers of other 
faiths was not so pleasant. They furnish 
policemen as well as soldiers for England. 
As I said before, we saw them at Bombay and 
Singapore. They are great money savers, and 
in a few years, by economy, lay up enough 
to go home and live well the remainder of 
their days. On the whole, our visit to Lahore 
and Amritsar was very satisfactory, and I would 
recommend any one to go 300 miles to see these 
places. 


114 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


CHAPTER VII. 

We returned to Delhi to spend one more day, 
and then to go to Jeypore, having come 
down from Amritsar by night. We went out to 
see the Koutub Minar, eleven miles off, and the 
beautiful remains of the Mosque, in the court yard 
of which it stood. Some of the walls of the ruined 
Mosque have fine lacework stone carving, stolen 
from twenty-nine Hindoo temples 680 years ago, 
when this Mosque was being built. This Minar 
is a tower of victory 240 feet high, rising in a series 
of stories marked each by a balcony; it is forty- 
seven feet in diameter at bottom and nine at top. 
The view from the top is very extensive. Delhi, 
with all the intervening country, is spread outbefore 
you like a map. Think of what has happened here 
in India in the 680 years since this monument was 
built. It is thought that the original city of Dilli 
was here located; at any rate there is a continued 
succession of ruins of buildings, and we counted 
forty old Mosques on the way back to Delhi. We 
passed en route old Eerozabad, Indrapat, 
Humayuu’s tomb, the fine Ivilli Kona Mosque, 
Asoka’s pillar, etc. I almost forgot the celebrated 


the KOUTUB MINAR, DELHI 








































TEYFORK. 


115 

Iron Pillar standing in the same old court as the 
lvontul) Minar. It is thought to date A. D. 379, 
being the oldest iron monument extant. It is only 
twenty-seven feet high above ground, how much 
below is not known. 

Our night ride to Jeypore was interrupted by 
an army officer who came in our compartment 
begging to be allowed to spread his blanket on the 
floor, as he could get no place elsewhere. We 
occupied the three berths, and he could get no 
other first-class place. lie proved to be Lieut. 
Gaysford, and we saw more of him next day riding 
about the town and at the hotel. It must take 
great economy and patience for a junior officer to 
get money to go home for a visit, especially now 
when the rupee is not worth much over half its 
old value from the depression of silver money. 
We found deypore a very interesting place; it was 
built in 1728 by the Maharajah dey Singh. For 
some miles we could sec Tiger Fort and in front of 
it in large stone letters the word “ welcome ,” 
put there for the benefit of the Prince of Wales 
on his visit to the city. 

The place is large, has near 150,000 people, 
is beautifully laid out with very wide streets, 
and has many nice houses from two to four 
stories high, all painted or stained pink, the 


116 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 

principal streets are 111 feet in width. There 
is a line park with a zoological garden, and also a 
large building called Albert Hall, costly and very 
imposing, containing a line collection of various 
objects of interest for a museum, and also a 
Durbar Hall for receptions on grand occasions 
by the Rajah; it faces towards the Palace looking 
through an avenue which runs directly to thelatter, 
which we visited. The palace is a modern building, 
considered by Edwin Arnold to be very fine; it con¬ 
tains a large reception hall and billiard room, into 
which we were shown; there were a number of 
skins of tigers and other wild auimals which the 
Rajah is supposed to have killed. Near by 
were the stables for horses and elephants. We 
were interested in the school of arts, where ismadea 
great variety of brass repousse and silver damascene 
work; some of it is very handsome, and it is sur¬ 
prising how cheaply the inlaid silver work is sold. 
We saw a man at work on a shield, about fifteen 
inches in diameter, punching little threads of silver 
into the steel surface in patterns, they were very 
slender but produced a fine effect; it was nearly 
done and had taken fifteen days to make, for which 
was asked only 20 rupees, at present value $5.40. 
The director was very obliging and spoke excellent 
English. I saw a small plaque of the peculiar 


WINDS PAIyACE, JEYPORE 







































































THE ENGLISH RESIDENT, JEYPORE. 


117 


enamel of birds and flowers on gold, for which 
this city is noted; it was about three inches long, 
one and three-fourths wide, of pure gold. I asked 
him the cost if a silver bottom and sides making: 
a small box were added; he said the silver would 
be 8 rupees and the work 1 % rupees, so cheap is 
labor of skilled men here. It seems to me Tiffany 
might make much money by starting a factory 
here, as labor is not more than one-eighth as costly 
as at home. 

Next morning early we started for Amber, the 
deserted city, deserted because a priest told the 
Rajah it was not lucky to occupy a city more than 
1,000 years. So Amber was abandoned in 1728 
and rleypore was made a city and capital in its 
stead. We were off early to avoid the heat. AVe 
had the previous day called on Col. Prideaux, the 
English resident, who is the representative of 
his government at this court, and whose duty it is 
to see that all goes well for England. There is 
such a person at the capital of every native prince. 
He has been here many years, occupies a tine 
mansion, and was very chatty and agreeable. He 
said that an Englishman had been man¬ 
aging the revenues lately and had legitimately 
increased the income £300,000. The colonel is now 
about to retire—going home. He showed us a 



118 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


portrait of himself the Rajah had just had painted; 
it was done by a native and was a good like¬ 
ness. The law does not allow presents of value 
made by the Prince to be received by the 
English resident. Our visit ended by a re¬ 
quest for the use of the Maharajah’s elephants 
for next morning. So when we came within two 
miles of Amber we found elephants for us to ride 
up to the palace, which is situated on quite a hill, 
we went in great state along the road and up to 
the palace, passing on our way many ruins of the 
old city. The view was very extensive, and the 
palace, which is kept in very fair repair, would 
have been very interesting if we had not seen Agra 
and Delhi. Still there is some charming archi¬ 
tectural work there. In an open hall we saw blood 
on the marble door where a goat had just been killed 
as a sacrifice to Durga or Kali, the bloodthirsty 
goddess. They make this sacrifice every morning. 
Once they sacrificed men to her. Our elephants 
were rather slow and I do not think them as 
agreeable as donkeys, but we made the four miles 
comfortably and were photographed on them at 
end of the trip. 

On our return we passed many alligators 
in ponds sunning themselves, and on arriving 
at Jeypore we visited the Maharajah’s college, 


RIDING TO AMBER 



























maharajah’s college. 


119 


where 1,200 youths are receiving education. 
We were shown into the various rooms very 
politely by the head master and examined 
several of those who were studying English. I 
was very much interested in seeing how well they 
were learning; they read very well, distinctly and 
properly pronouncing the words, and when asked 
the meaning explained it clearly in good English. 
One boy repeated from memory perfectly almost all 
of Wordsworth’s poem, “ lEc are Seven .” The 
sons of various Rajput nobles were studying by 
themselves and were provided with chairs instead 
of benches. Some students were learning Persian, 
but I think none Latin or Greek. I think one 
might spend several days or a week at Jeypore if 
quite at leisure as to time. 

But we were off that night for Abou Road, 
where we arrived next day noon and at once 
started for Mt. Abou, seventeen miles, up 
hill, except the first four, which are nearly 
level, and over a good macadamized road, the 
remaining thirteen miles (we thought it seventeen, 
for it seemed endless) the road was constantly 
rising, and we were always in deep dust; it was an 
awful bore. The scenery would have been fair 
but for the desert dried-up look of the mountains; 
there were many trees, but most had an arid look. 


120 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


Finally, after dragging along until near eight 
o’clock in the evening, we arrived at our hotel, and 
after a little wash were glad of a supper and a bed. 
We rose in the morning to find very good scenery, 
but not remarkable enough for warranting such a 
ride. The Jain Temples are the principal attraction 
hero; but not until twelve o’clock noon could we be 
admitted. They are called theDilwarra Temples; 
the oldest was built in 1032 and the other from 1197 
to 1247, being fifty years in building, and costing 
$9,000,000 in gold. The stone carvings are most 
remarkable; they weredone in very curious designs, 
too difficult to be explained here. It was certainly 
unlike any of the other Hindoo temples we had 
seen, yet we found a similar sort of work at the 
Jain Temple at Ahmedabad; there were not the 
great figures of Hindoo deities found in Southern 
India, but small figures of elephants, and other 
figures and flowers and varied tracery most peculiar 
and interesting. The temples are not large, but 
all around a court are cloisters, in each of which is 
a small enclosure, open in front, with a bust or 
figure of Parswanatha, the saint to whom the 
temple is dedicated; they seemed all alike, a 
sitting figure; there must have been sixty of them 
in each temple; then there was a shrine in the 
center, and in the roof raised figures of this marble 




























NIONKKYS AND MT. AIU'. 


121 


carving of which I have spoken. As I have said, 
the temples are not large but very interesting 
There are several other temples around within two 
miles, but these are the most important and 
peculiar. But I hardly think it pays to come so 
far though, to see them, unless one has plenty of 
time, more especially as the Jain Temple of Ahnie- 
dabad is very similar in style, carving, figures, 
saints, busts, etc. 

There is a sanitarium for the English troops, 
and many people come here in summer from 
Bombay. 

We saw two groups of monkeys among the 
bushes, both going and coming, which amused us 
much; they were evidently as much interested in 
us as we with them—they had very long tails, and 
a very old look; from the white hair surrounding 
their faces they looked like very respectable 
old colored men with grey hair and whiskers. 

We had the pleasure of drinking pure water 
from some springs, the first since leaving Dar¬ 
jeeling, both going up and coming back, and also 
at Mt. Abu. Our return trip to the railway depot 
at Abu Hoad was much more agreeable and speedy 
than the ascent. 

Another night’s ride brought us to Ahmeda- 
bad at six o’clock in the morning. As soon 


122 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


as we could get breakfast we were off to 
see the city. There is a great Mosque here, 
built in a large court; it had 260 columns, but 
is not remarkable for its size, and we were not 
specially interested in it, although Ferguson says 
it is one of the most beautiful Mosques in the East. 
Near here is the tomb of Ahmed Shah, the builder 
of the city, and a little further off that of a queen, 
and near her several tombs of parrots, cats and 
dogs. We saw also two old Mosques not now used 
and partly decayed, in which was some most re¬ 
markable tracery of stone, carved to look like lace- 
work ; also, another one, now used as an office, very 
old, that has two windows of open carved work like 
the branches and leaves of a tree, which have 
secured and are worthy of great encomiums. Then 
the Jain Temple I have spoken of, which was 
restored in 1868 by a rich merchant at a cost of 
$450,000, gold; it is very tine in carving and 
figures similar to those at Mt. Abu, besides having 
very rich inlaid marble pavements. From its 
top there was a good view of this large city of 
150,000 people. 

We then went to a great animal hospital; there 
were sick horses, cows, monkeys, goats, chickens, 
rabbits, dogs, insects, etc., all housed and cared 
for; also, on the grounds an immense dove house, 


HINDOO WEDDING PROCESSION, DELHI. 



•v ‘ 

























BAKODA. 


1 26 


where were nests for 1000 or more, They seem 
fond of pigeons all through India; at Jeypore, at 
certain hours they feed them in the center of the 
town in an open place, where we saw hundreds 
of them picking up grain. If their religion does 
not allow them to eat them, it did not prevent 
their feeding them to us. I was told that some¬ 
times in bad seasons for the doves, very much 
money is spent by rich Hindoos in buying grain 
for them. But these and other birds are a regular 
nuisance, dropping their tilth in all sorts of places, 
in houses, temples, etc., and not even respecting 
the white clothes of the writer. 

We were off at noon for Baroda, where we 
arrived at three o’clock in the afternoon, and were 
advised at the station that an elephant tight was 
coming off at the Guicowar’s enclosed grounds; 
there was no time to be wasted in getting there, 
and our driver rushed us right on to the entrance, 
crowding out the throng of foot people trying to 
get in. I suppose he must have cried “Make way 
for the Sahib” or the Ilowadji, as the nativesspeak 
of foreigners, for they did make way and let us 
pass through the gate, and we found ourselves in 
a large open space of several acres, six I think, at 
least, well enclosed with walls twelve or fifteen 
feet high; every tifteen or twenty feet are open- 


124 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


ings, where the native keepers could, in case of 
need, retreat from any mad animal. We were 
driven right up to the Rajah’s pavilion, and ran 
up-stairs and were pushed to the front, and soon 
met by a very amiable-looking gentleman, Mr. J. 
A. Datal, Private Secretary to His Highness the Gui- 
cowar, to whom we said we had come from Amer¬ 
ica, and he seated us among the big wigs close 
behind the Guicowar himself, who is quite a young 
man, with a very strange and romantic history. 
His predecessor was a bad man, who, after poison¬ 
ing several persons who were nearly related to 
him, tried to poison the British resident, where¬ 
upon the English put him out, and seeking a 
successor of the royal blood, found this youth at the 
plow, a distant scion of the family, and made him 
Guicowar in place of the dethroned one. He likes 
Europe, they say, more than Baroda. The sport 
going on at our entrance was wrestling; there were 
four or five couples brought in, stalwart fellows, 
but the result was generally a draw, as the weak¬ 
est would be strong enough to lie fiat and hold 
himself down on the ground ; once only was there 
a plump lodgment on the back, and then there 
was great cheering. Then came buffalo bull 
fights; the first pair rushed at each other and 
struggled long, but finally one turned tail and ran, 


BULLOCK CART, NEAR DELHI. 
































BUFFALO AND ELEPHANT FIGHTING. 125 

breaking through a temporary interior wooden 
enclosure and rushing out, followed by the other, 
who was punching him all the time; then there 
was another set, and they seemed evenly matched, 
butting heads together and pushing long and well. 
Another pair were like them, and finally, as there 
seemed no sign of victory on either side, ropes 
were attached to their hind legs and they were 
drawn apart and away. Then came in two rams, 
who fought amusingly; running back eight or ten 
feet, they would rush up and strike their heads 
with a great crash, and so repeat until they were 
put out. Then a pair of deer in a small wagon, 
drawing a man, came in, then the wooden enclosure 
was removed, and a great elephant came slowly in; 
then we saw another coming in at another great 
gate, the same by which we had entered at the other 
end of the enclosure far off, but he did not seem 
anxious to meet the first, but finally, by liberal 
punching and prodding, he was forced up to the 
encounter, after a few struggles and butting of 
the head he suddenly turned tail and ran off as fast 
as he could go; he tried to get out, but great 
timbers, which he could not break, had been put 
in the gateway, and the other was giving him a 
severe fire in the rear, punching him with his 
tusks, but finally the Mahouts fired off some explo- 


12(i A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 

sive, making a great and disagreeable smoke of 
bad odor, which drove the victor off. Then 
another bio: fellow was brought in to fight the 
victor, and after a long and tierce struggle he gave 
way like his late antagonist and ran off, 
rapidly followed in same manner as he had chased 
the other. The last victor remained the champion. 
Then there were eight female elephants brought in, 
but not to light; they came up in a line, and were 
made to trumpet and scream loudly; at same time 
there were three big fellows outside covered with 
people, and high enough on a little elevation to see 
and be seen; so we saw fourteen of the Prince’s 
elephants; how many more he had I do not know, 
but I presume many. They do nothing, but are 
kept only for the amusement of His Highness and 
his friends. Guicowar means cowherd, and it is 
said that was the occupation of the first of the 
line. Then, as it was almost sundown, His High¬ 
ness left, amid the salaams of the high gentlemen 
around him, with whom we joined, as evidence of 
our having been well entertained and our high 
appreciation of his hospitality. We saw some 
boys of the royal family, very nice looking; the 
Guicowar and all the gentlemen were high caste, 
light colored and aristocratic in appearance; the 
boys were very prepossessing and genteel. We 


;roup of mahrattas. 






















TTIB GUICOWAR’s JEWELS. 


127 


felt under great obligations to the master of cere¬ 
monies, the Secretary, who so politely seated us 
at about the best possible place, but as he left 
hurriedly, had no chance to thank him. We rode 
to the fine new palace, which is a grand and impos¬ 
ing modern building, well worth a visit, but one 
must prepare for it by getting a ticket beforehand. 
The Guicowar is said to have immensely valuable 
jewels—I heard that one necklace was worth 
£250,000, say $1,250,000. The town was rather 
pleasant, and would well repay one or two days’ 
visit. 

After dinner at the station restaurant, we 
left at ten o’clock in the evening for Bombay; 
waking up at 6:30 we saw a great number of 
high chimneys and knew we were in the cotton 
manufacturing suburb of the great West of 
India metropolis. We passed on, and running 
from station to station through the city, soon 
stopped at Church Gate, and before long found 
ourselves at the Esplanade Hotel, a great caravan- 
sera kept by a native, who has made an immense 
fortune out of it, and who cuts a great swell 
when he travels, we never saw him; but the house 
is only fair as to the table, and the rooms, though 
not large, are comfortable, with a bath room for 
each apartment, however small. We were told 


128 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


the table was let out by the clay to a contractor 
for a rupee a head, that is, for each guest; as 
that was never more than a half dollar and now 
only twenty-seven cents, it is easy to be seen why 
the table is not better. The same mode was 
adopted at the Hong Kong Hotel, only there 
the table was let to a Chinaman, we heard, who 
furnished more scanty fare. 

We spent four days here very pleasantly; 
it is a great city of over 800,000 people of 
all races, religions and complexions; in riding 
through it 1 often wondered how all these 
people lived, but so little is required for 
them here that not much money is needed, to 
clothe them—for the mass of women, only a 
piece of cloth of some gaudy color, which 
they will wrap around their bodies and legs very 
adroitly so as to cover themselves ; for the children, 
nothing; and for the men a cloth about the loins; 
then they need only a little rice, some vegetables, 
and possi bly some fish as a luxury. The rich live 
gorgeously, ride out in fine carriages with servants 
behind, and are very fond of display. 

We rode in a launch to the cave of Elephanta, 
very remarkable as a former place of worship of the 
Hindoos, it is dug out of hard rock; here are 
courts and cloisters, great images and groups of 



























CAY K OC ELEPHANTA. 


I 2<J 


Vishnu and his fellow gods and goddesses. 
One signifies his marriage to Parvati. Many of 
the figures are very large and well sculptured. 
There is a fountain from a spring of pure water 
coming out of the mountain; great columns are 
left to support the immense weight of thousandsof 
tons of rock and earth overhead. So great is the 
weight that they have had to bind the columns 
with iron to prevent crushing. Even now there 
are many Hindoos who come to worship these 
deities, and at some times in the year throngs come 
here. It is said there are many poisonous snakes, 
but vve saw none. The trip took one and a 
half hours or so each way, and thus it consumed 
the afternoon pleasantly. We rode along through 
the shipping by the great Victoria Docks; there 
were many vessels in port of various lines of 
steamers, but not so many sailing ships as at Cal¬ 
cutta, where we saw many of the largest sailing 
vessels to be found anywhere, but there were only 
very few American ones. There was a steam yacht, 
the Wadena , belonging to a Mr. Wade, of Cleve¬ 
land, O., whose father made a fortune in petro¬ 
leum. The owner, with his family, met her 
here, they having been up the country; with 
them was a servant from the Green Isle; we met 
them at Ahmedabad at the station breakfast, and 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


130 

afterwards saw them at the Jain Temple, where 
we were required to take off our shoes to enter. 
She said, “Do yez suppose I am goin’ to 
take off me shoes to go into a haythen tem¬ 
ple when I don’t do it to go into me own 
church?” and she did not go in. But speaking 
of yachts, I am quite willing the owners 
may go on them; I much prefer a great ocean 
steamer managed by men constantly running 
over these routes, where, too, one has pleasant and 
new company, to a yacht 180 or 200 feet long and 
always only your own people with whom to talk. It 
must give them, too, a tine stirring up in a rough sea 
with such a ship, compared with one 450 or 500 
feet long. 

We sailed on all lines, American, Canadian 
Pacific, North German Lloyds, Austrian Lloyds, 
British India, French Messageries, P. and O. 
and Greek, and were fortunate in all save the small 
Austrian Lloyds on the Mediterranean, where we 
were badly crowded, four in a room and disagreea¬ 
ble people. The English people swear by the P. 
and O., and will pay fifty per ceut more to go on 
one of them than any other, be it ever so good. 
We took the “ Imperator,” an Austrian boat, from 
Bombay, and found her very fast, steady, safe, and 
the table excellent; besides, the price was .420 


TOWER OF SII,KXCK, BOMBAY. 



















' 1 



TOW ICRS OK SI LION OK. 


131 


rupees, while for inferior rooms on the P. unci O. 
they asked (130 rupees. 

We rode up to Malabar Hill, a high sweep of 
land which runs out into the sea, about three and 
one-half miles from our hotel, commanding a 
lovely view; on these hills are the water-works, 
and on the highest and finest point are the five 
Towers of Silence where the Parsees deliver their 
dead to the tender mercies of the vultures. We 



went up a long flight of stone steps and were there 
met by a conductor, who took us to fhc top, where 
is a hall for services; when thus occupied, 
strangers are not allowed in the premises. After 
that the bodies are carried away from the friends, 
placed on an incline in one of the towers, which 








132 


A TRIP AROUND TIIE WORLD. 


has three lines of places for bodies all inclining to 
the center. The outside row is for men, the 
the next for women and the third for children; 
the bodies are simply laid on one of these places 
and left, the doors are shut, all clothing having 
been removed, and then the great evil-looking 
birds have full chance to gorge themselves o.i the 
flesh. After all flesb, etc., has been eaten off, the 
bones are left to decay and crumble, and by and 
by go into the pit through an opening left in the 
center, and finally, having become almost ashes, 
are carried off by the great rains into the sea 
through a sewer, the whole body having been 
restored to its original elements. They generally 
use two towers, each of which I judge must 
be about thirty-five to forty feet in diameter. 
The Parsees pay great veneration to the ele¬ 
ments, and consider a dead body most unclean ; 
therefore, they will not pollute fire by using 
it to burn the dead; neither do they wish to 
destroy them in water or defile the earth with 
them, out of respect to those elements. So they 
resort to this singular manner in disposing of 
their departed friends. The grounds are made 
attractive by fine trees, shrubs and flowers, and the 
lovely view of all Bombay and the broad ocean in 
front. Friends can come here and sit in a pavilion, 


RAILWAY STATION, BOMBAY. 



































































RAILWAY STATION, BOMBAY. 


133 

enjoy the outlook and meditate on the frailty of 
man and muse on their hopes of a miraculous resur¬ 
rection and reunion of souls, if not bodies. The 
reservoir is close by and formerly was open, but 
citizens got the idea that it was possible the foul 
birds might drop pieces of the dead in it, and the 
suspicion only was enough to compel the covering 
of the whole with roofs. 

There is a most remarkable railroad station 
here, costing $1,500,000. It has room for eight 
tracks, but does not equal in point of shed 
room ours in St. Louis by a great deal, but 
the architecture of the main building for ottices, 
dining rooms, etc., is tiner and much more impos¬ 
ing; but then the land cost very little here, and 
also labor is so much less expensive, really noth¬ 
ing, compared to what it is with us, so it should be 
very tine for this sum. For use of a great system 
ours is the more important from its better arrange¬ 
ment and greater capacity. The public buildings 
here, court rooms, post office, government house, 
etc., are on a grand scale, and so in this respect Bom¬ 
bay has a line appearance; it is comparatively a 
modern town, but well deserves a week or two for 
persons of leisure. 

Always in the afternoon after tiffin there 
were jugglers who performed in front of the 


134 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


hotel the various tricks of their trade, such 
as we see at home, and various others not done 
with us—the mango tree’s miraculous growth, the 
disappearance of the child in the basket and the 
stabbing all over the basket, and pretending 
blood coming out, and finally the re-appearance of 
the boy uninjured, the handling of the deadly 
cobra snake, etc., etc. I see Heller says they are 
not equal to European jugglers, but it must be 
remembered they perform their tricks in the street 
in broad day, before many persons who stand close 
to them, with no footlights and scarcely any para¬ 
phernalia. On the whole, they are very meritorious. 
One trick I saw well done : one of them made, first, a 
little smoke come from his mouth, then more and 
more smoke, then sparks, and finally fire, ending in a 
perfect blaze rushing out; how he avoided burn¬ 
ing himself, I cannot see. This one looked like a 
spit-fire indeed, a small volcano coming apparently 
from the stomach. I was assured that not all 
of the jugglers had removed the fangs of the 
cobras they handled, but that some had such con¬ 
fidence in their power over them that they made 
free with them in their natural state. 

The native part of town is tolerably well built, 
but they live in crowded rooms, and having no need 
of fires, with doors always open it is not so unhealthy 


l’ARSKKS. 


































RUSSIA AND INDIA. 


135 


as such crowding would beincoldcliinates. Yet when 
the hot, damp, rainy season comes on, I fancy it 
must be very bad for health here, and so they told 
me it is. 

We hear much about the fears of au inva¬ 
sion of India by the Russians, and some think 
the facilities of transportation offered by the rail¬ 
roads will enable Russia to conquer Afghanistan, 
or to win that country to their side, so she would 
then be ready to pour another Scythian horde 
over and through these mountain passes like 
an overwhelming avalanche again spreading 
over the fertile plains of India, giving these 
poor people another master. I, for one, do not 
think it will happen, nor do I think it desirable; 
rather, I am sure it would be a very sad disaster 
to India. I am sure there is yet remaining in 
(ireat Britain and Greater Britain enough courage, 
pluck and statesmanship to make such a result 
impossible, even if Russia sought it, of which there 
seems no proof. As a descendant of the Anglo- 
Saxon race, I like to see its rule, first beneficent, 
and thus being for the best, that it shall predomi¬ 
nate throughout the world. Far distant is the day 
when Russia will conquer India; her rule, I fear, 
would be a retrograde movement. 


136 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


CHAPTER VIIL 

We left Bombay oa March 1st at noon on the 
Imperator, and had a charming run to Aden; the 
only untoward event was aduokinglgot one night 
from an unusually high wave coming into my port¬ 
hole, under which 1 was sleeping very soundly. I 
think about half a barrel of water was dashed over 
me, and I was forced to join the many other passen¬ 
gers in sleeping on deck. We arrived at Aden on the 
6th, at eleven o’clock in the morning, where we spent 
the day coaling. We were at once met by a crowd of 
small boys— Somalis —in little boats, stark naked, 
ready to dive for small silver coins, not coppers, 
because I think they could not well see copper in the 
water; also there was a crowd of traders who came 
on with ostrich feathers, gazelle horns and various 
things to sell; these fellows are great cheats, like 
all these Eastern peripatetic traders, and ask much 
more than they expect to take; a fellow-passenger 
wanted some ostrich feathers, for which thirty 
shillings was asked, he offered ten rupees, equal 
now to eleven shillings, and got them, and after¬ 
wards saw the man sell the same value at half the 
sum he paid. They swindle in everything, and you 


ADEN. 


137 


are not smart enough to avoid bein^ robbed, even 
in giving change. The whole native people 
here cheat—besides, they never expect to see 
you again, and so there is no self-interest for 
future trade to keep them honest, and, of 
course, they are unprincipled. We got our 
decks quite covered with coal dust, and alto¬ 
gether had a very dirty time here, and were 
glad to get rid of the lazy blacks who passed up 
the coal. The contrast between coaling here and 
at Nagasaki was immensely in favor of the pleas¬ 
ant, active Japanese. Aden is a dry, barren, 
uninteresting place; there is quite a little town 
here; in order to supply it with fresh water great 
tanks have been built in the mountain side to 
catch what little rainfall there is. At last 
we were off, after taking besides coal, some cargo, 
among which was a large quantity of incense gum, 
such as is used in Catholic churches. It is said to 
be quite expensive, but they took on board, as our 
captain said, euough to incense all the churches in 
Europe. 

We were four days on the Red Sea, pass¬ 
ing many islands, the Twelve Apostles among 
them; a rugged, bad lot too, mostly, with not a 
spear or leaf of vegetation, dismal sand and rock. 
We were frequently in sight of land on one side or 


138 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


the other, and sometimes on both. We came into 

the Gulf of Suez on the 9th, late, and run up it until 

atnine o’clock intheevening of the 10th we dropped 

anchor off the town of Suez, and soon transferred 

ourselves and belongings to a sail boat for a trip 

of two hours, tacking and sailing and tacking and 

sailing again and again, until about eleven o’clock 

we landed at the Custom House dock. We were 

allowed to take valises and bags, and had to leave 

the rest of our baggage in the hands of Arabs in 

the boat at the dock for the night, and so tramped 

off to the Hotel Orient, where we slept until 6 :30, 

and then got coffee, bread and eggs. I don’t 

know what the East would be for strangers with- 

© 

out the ever-recurring chicken and the hen fruit; 
these and mutton comprise a large part of the 
menu offered travelers, but the bread here was 
French and excellent. 

After releasing our baggage and getting it 
to the train, we walked about Suez; it is not 
much to see, in fact, nothing but the usual 
Eastern town, showing, however, the marks of a 
former prosperity before the digging and open¬ 
ing of the canal, when there was a large expendi¬ 
ture arising from the traffic across by land from 
Cairo by means of camels and donkeys, for 
passenger and fast freight to and from India; 


sri.z. 


139 

then, too, there was much money spent here during 
the canal-making by employes. There is quite a 
number of French people here, but little money 
is left here now by travelers; some, like us, 
spend a night, but the great proportion pass right 
through Egypt on boats to and from India, spend¬ 
ing only the four hours required to go through the 
canal on the steamer, and keeping on board and 
right on their course, except those who go to 
Cairo for a Nile trip. 

At ten o’clock in the morning we were off 
for Cairo, passing for many miles along and in 
sight of the canal; we saw eleven steamers at 
once, as there had been a block the night before, 
owing to a steamer having grounded at the 
mouth, so our friends on the Imperator lay all 
night waiting, and we saw her among the rest. 
We passed the bitter lakes, so called, and sped 
on to Ismailya, where is a stop of twenty minutes. 
It is not much of a place, yet does some busi¬ 
ness, as all the Peninsular and Oriental boats 
stop there and land and receive passengers going 
to and coming from Cairo. 

We were very glad that we came by the Imper¬ 
ator, for we had been half inclined to wait one day 
and go on the P. and O boat, as we had been told 
she would get in first, but she was twenty-four 


140 


A TRIP A ROUT'D TILE WORLD. 


hours behind us, had poorer fare and worse rooms, 
and we would have lost our Nile trip or got it by 
going by rail up to Assiout. 

We finally got to Zagazig, a town which has 
grown very largely since I was here in 187(5, It 
is in the land of Goshen of the Bible, there have 
been some very fine discoveries made near here 
within the last few years. It was to this very place 
that Dr. Henry Schliemann recommended me to 
£o and make diggings, but 1 could not do it with- 
out giving up all my affairs at home for a long 
time, and my present business for life. It turned 
out to be as good a point as he contemplated and 
might have made one’s name famous among 
archaeologists, and I think I would have liked the 
work. I was surprised at the multitude of passen¬ 
gers we put off and took on here; it seems the 
Egyptians, like all the Eastern people, take 
kindly to railroad riding, for everywhere in Japan, 
India and now here we have found crowds of 
them filling up the third-class cars. 

We were soon at Cairo, and I was surprised at 
the great change since 1868. There were very few 
buildings then near the depot, and Shepheard’s 
Hotel was away from houses, but now a city of 
elegant hotels, store buildings, shops, etc., has 
grown up. The growth is as marvelous as that of 


ISM AIL PASHA’S FUNERAL. 


141 


many of our Western towns, and there must have 
been a great deal of money made in real estate here. 
It is antique Egypt which has caused it all, for the 
number of visitors who come here to see the won¬ 
derful remains of the pre-Christian world is multi¬ 
tude. Full one half come from our country; all 
spend much money, for Egypt is not cheap for 
the traveler who goes to fashionable hotels and 
rides on Cooks’ steamers or dahabeahs. The 
hotels charge $4 gold per day, for Egypt is sound 
on the silver question, and you are also expected 
to pay for afternoon tea, and to pay extra to 
the servants; you are fair game for all, and 
with wonderful unanimity rises to the ears of each 
traveler the old cry Bakshish. In fact, this is a 
great drawback on the Nile journey, a universal 
nuisance. 

We were fortunate enough to see the funeral 
procession of the late Khedive Isma il Pasha, in 
whose reign the canal was made, and for whom 
Ismailya is named. It passed our hotel; and 
was composed of soldiers, foot and horse, police, 
various societies of Moslems, singing or chanting, 
of the civil employes of government, of many 
Greek and Armenian priests, Mahometan Mollahs 
and many citizens, native and foreign, besides 
some women closely veiled, and some boys. There 


142 


A TRIP AROUND THU WORLD. 


was not much order, it was rather a go-as-you-please 
affair, for there was no preparatory drilling possi¬ 
ble for so mixed a gathering. The procession took 
two and one-half hours in passing, llis body was 
carried on a bier borne by eight men, and the pall 
was of fine, light-colored silk embroidery; at one 
end was a small column raised two and one-half or 
three feet high, on top of which was placed his 
cap. lie was turned out of power by the English 
and French for his extravagance, which was very 
great, but he introduced some good things in 
Egypt; he built the canal, /arge.y by forced labor, 
and he sold to England his shares, which have 
proved so great a speculation. In going up 
the Nile, however, we saw many abandoned sugar 
houses which lie had built with borrowed money and 
with great waste; he also built palaces not needed, 
and on too tine a scale for a borrower; for 
instance, the one now used for a museum at Gizeh 
and the Ghizireh, a most magnificent affair, across 
the river, with beautiful grounds, now used as a 
hotel, one of the most elegant and aristocratic in 
the world, but a little too far out to be popular, 
except for those who come to spend some time 
and have plenty of leisure. So when England had 
lent him all they thought safe, and his way of col¬ 
lecting revenue did not produce enough to pay the 



















LORD WOLSELEY. 


143 


interest, they then turned him out and took charge 
of the finances themselves; it is fair to say their 
mode is much the best, far more equal and honest, 
for there is no squeezing, when the average charge 
of $4.50 per acre (sometimes more and sometimes 
less, according to value of the soil and its situation) 
is collected ; then the poor peasant is not in fear of 
plunder if he is prospering. 

There have been several Pashas since him, 
among them was Arabi, who made the cheapest 
reputation for Lord Wolsely that ever anyone got 
for a little fight of thirty-five minutes, followed 
by a stampede. 

It must be remembered, in thinking of Lord 
Wolseley, that he is the General who opposes the 
building of a tunnel between France and England, 
for fear that the valorous Gauls will come through 
it, and swarming out of the end at Dover, capture 
Great Britain, and this, too, when the English 
have complete control of that part of it, and could 
fiood it in a moment, or otherwise protect them¬ 
selves. In case of war, of course, it would be 
shut up entirely, and whenever the relations of 
the two countries become strained, precautions 
might be taken. 

It seems pusillanimous to speak of such a 
danger. 


144 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


We got off on the steamer Raineses III at 12 :30, 
and found her a most satisfactory floating hotel; 
only twenty passengers for a boat some 200 feet 
long and calculated to accommodate seventy. 
Even then I think Messrs. Cook made money on 
the trip, for we paid $250 gold each, and there were 
six more passengers returned with us, so my English 
friend, Mr. Stanton, and myself made investiga¬ 
tions as to pay of officers, men and cost of food, 
and concluded that $3,000 would cover all. and the 
receipts must have been $5,300. 

We visited the ruins of ancient Memphis and 
the tombs of Sakkarah on the first day, as they are 
only some two hours’ run above Cairo. We were 
delighted in seeing the tomb of Thi, the several 
Pyramids, the great Apis Bull Mausoleum, called 
also the Serapeum,and the house of Mariette Bey, 
the Frenchman who opened up these and a vast 
number of other Egyptian tombs and curiosities to 
the world. His house is located out on the sands 
of the desert near the Serapeum and not far from 
the tomb of Thi and the Step Pyramid, so-called 
because it recedes upwards by a regular series of 
recessions like immense steps. Mariette was a 
great benefactor to the world, for he set the ex¬ 
ample of saving to Egypt her invaluable relics of the 
hoary past. There were twenty-four immense Bull 


VANDALISM IN KUYPT. 


145 


Sarcophagi, each originally containing an animal 
mummified, all of beautifully polished granite with 
inscriptions well preserved, and not defaced by the 
Christians who did such irreparable damage among 
temples and tombs. Cambyses commenced the 
destruction, then the early Christian monks 
inhabited many of the tombs and temples, some¬ 
times trying to turn them into chapels or churches, 
painting pictures of saints on the walls in place of 
reliefs in stone of Egyptian kings or deities chiseled 
off. The result is hideous. 

Going through so many of these ancient places, 
one after another, where these miserable early 
Christians have thus deliberately, and with great 
labor, cut off the faces of important figures, one 
becomes indignant and feels like the Quaker that 
said swearing would not do for him, yet on an 
occasion of great provocation, remarked if any 
other person would indulge in a little profanity 
that it would express his feelings. After these 
came the Moslem Arabs ransacking tombs for 
gold and silver ornaments, and burning the mum¬ 
mies for fuel, and also many mummy cases which 
would now be priceless both for their own curiosity 
and also for the papyri found in all those of the 
wealthy. Each person of high rank had buried 
with him a fine illustrated account of his good 


14(5 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


deeds and testimonials to his gods; and it is from 
these that so much has been learned of the life 
the Egyptians led so many thousand years ago. 

Then, these Arabs stole, for use in building 
and for other domestic purposes, valuable stones 
covered with hieroglyphics, remarkable inscrip¬ 
tions they did not understand, nor had these stones 
any charm for them until foreigners came here, 
and they learned that they would sell for cash. 
Then again, Europeans or Americans are guilty; 
they would offer an Arab money to cut out an 
inscription or remove a head or figure, and in so 
doing a very valuable curiosity or relic would be 
ruined. The Sphinx has been enormously dam¬ 
aged in consequence of people offering money to 
Arabs to break off pieces, until his face is smashed 
and nose gone. Then, some fool Americans and 
English have painted or chiseled their names on 
walls of temples. Yet this practice did not origin¬ 
ate with this age, for we find Roman names at 
Philae in the great Temple, and Desaix had a 
large inscription chiseled there at the entrance on 
a wall of the temple to show his conquering march 
to and above the first cataract. Yet at Sakkarab, 
Beni Hassan, Luxor and Karnak, in the tombs of 
the kings, the temple at Medinet Abou, at Esneli, 
Edfou, Philae and Abydos we saw rich examples 


ANCIENT EGYPT. 


147 


of Egyptian art with hieroglyphic histories of 
their manners, religion and every-day life, and 
the victorious marches of their kings and great 
generals, for they were a fighting race, and often 
marched to the southward to gain spoils of gold, 
camels, asses, slaves and other things of value, 
and they loved to boast of their exploits in tombs 
and in temples. Then, too, they offered each year 
presents to the dead, and often we saw the history 
of these offerings inscribed on ample walls. 

No one can go through the Nile Valley as we 
did, stopping at all the various places of interest, 
seeing all the ruins, and then going down to 
Cairo and through the very remarkable collection 
at Gizeh, where are to be seen wooden and stone 
statues, 0,000 years old, full of expression and 
life, and jewelry that now is beautiful in design, 
finish and patterns, fit examples for our modern 
workmen to imitate, still shining in yellow gold 
and fadeless enamels, in brooch, pectoral, bracelet, 
coronets, rings, etc., without wondering at the 
great perfection of the work and the skill of the 
artists of those ages so long ago. They were the 
earliest instructors of the world in art, I believe, 
and from them the Greeks and others received 
their first lessons. At Beni Hassan we saw well- 
defined and excellent Doric columns made long 


148 A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 

before the Greeks had thought of erecting shafts. 
It may well be said that Egypt was hoary with 
civilization when the people of the European world 
were either wandering savages or at best, shep¬ 
herds, living in the rudest huts. 

Our voyage was uniformly pleasant; only once, 
and but for a few hours was it marred by the hot 
desert wind called the kamsin, but aside from that, 
the temperature was charming, just warm enough 
to be pleasant for our excursions back from the 
river to temples and tombs, and cool enough at 
night for blankets and closed doors to our cabins, 
leaving windows open for air. 

We made almost every day an excursion of 
from one to seven miles on donkeys, to visit old 
ruins of temples, statues and tombs, and the 
disagreeable parts of these trips was the scrambling 
and grabbing of each of us by various donkey 
men and boys; sometimes two or three at once 
would seize a man or woman to get him or her 
each for his particular donkey. They came down 
in force for forty passengers and, as we were only 
twenty, as many must be disappointed as happy. 

Our road generally led through fields of wheat, 
beans, barley and alfalfa, sometimes over canals 
and embankments to the desert’s edge, where 
among the rocks and hills almost always were 



































EDFOU. 


Ui) 

found the tombs and many of the temples; the 
little donkeys ambled or galloped along, the 
attending syces (boys usually) scolding them, 
giving them the most vicious licks with sticks, or 
twisting their tails to make them go fast; but we 
always came back happy for what we had seen, 
and then too, the exercise was healthy. 

At Edfou we found one of the most remark¬ 
able temples of Egypt, 180 years were spent 
in its building; it has two splendid square towers 
or propvlons in front, 112 feet high. We were 
here at evening, having passed through all below, 
we ascended to the summit of one of them 
and had a charming view; directly below us were 
the houses of the village; we could look right 
into their domestic affairs; the people, goats, 
donkeys and chickens live all together; we saw 
them making fires with dried buffalo manure, 
which is made into patties stuck on the sides of 
their houses and dried ready for home use or sale. 
We saw many women at work with this nasty stuff 
in India, and loads upon loads of the patties going 
into Delhi, Agra, etc., for sale, either on asses or 
camels. 

But to return to our tower; away off in the 
west the sun was slowly dropping to the hori¬ 
zon; all about was green vegetation on our side 


150 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


the river, which was only a half mile off; a few 
miles away towards the setting sun was the desert, 
grand, gloomy and unlovely; we sat and enjoyed 
the scene until the sun had disappeared and 
then left. We often noted how soon it became 
dark after sundown in the East—almost imme¬ 
diately—there is no twilight. 

But I am not proposing to give a particular 
account of our Nile trip, so many books have 
been written on this subject, so many hundreds of 
Americans go each year to Egypt and returning, 
tell their tales, that there is nothing to say but 
what has been already portrayed by pen and pencil 
better than I can do it. 

Our steamer trip ended at Aswan or Assouan, 
but we landed two miles below town, as the water 
was too low to get up to the landing. We rode up to 
town on camels and donkeys. Having never tried 
camels before, we made an experiment with them 
and found it not a bad mode of conveyance, much 
preferable to elephant riding; but on the whole, 
we preferred the little donkeys, except for the dust, 
the camel, being so high, is out of it more. They 
are great grumblers; they scold when they kneel to 
receive you, and they scold when they get up, and 
when being loaded they scold as the weight in¬ 
creases, and when they are urged on under way. 


KIOSK AT PHII </$ CATTED PHARAOH’S PHI). 






























PHILiE. 


151 


We rode on donkeys the six or seven miles up to 
Philae past the granite quarry, where is still lying 
a monolith, intended as a companion to one of the 
Needles, blocked out and waiting these 2,000 or 
more years to be taken in hand and removed. 
Philae is situated on an island in the Nile, and was 
called Holy because it was supposed Osiris was 
buried there. The most solemn oath of an ancient 
Egyptian was “By him who sleeps in Philae.” 
Here are remains of temples of vast extent and 
yet possessing wondrous interest. We lunched in 
the ruins of a little temple called Pharaoh’s bed 
and then took boats to sail down the river to our 
steamer; there was one place where men jumped in 
the river and rode on logs down through the rush¬ 
ing water or rapids and then went on shore, and 
walked back for backshish. It is rather dangerous 
I should say for a novice; I was told a foreigner 
tried it and was drowned. We passed rapidly and 
with exciting pleasure down the rapids or cataracts 
as they call them into the quiet water below. 

We were here two or three days and had much 
amusement with the commerce carried on by some 
of our fellow passengers with the natives, especially 

Baron-, of Bosnia, and Dr. Boesch and wife, 

of Vienna. The Baron bought enough spears, 
deer horns, arrows, shields, dried crocodiles, 



152 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


dresses made of beads and shells strung in 
rows (a complete outfit for a Nubian party dress 
for a female, being a ceinture about twenty inches 
wide hanging from the stomach below the middle) 
to fill his ancestral halls quite full, and the Austrian 
was not much behind him. 

Here, at our landing, we got our last view 
of the Southern Cross on two successive nights. 
I was up at one o’clock in the morning and 
saw it shining beautifully the first night. I 
informed my very good English friend, Mr. 
Harrison Stanton, of Southampton, and he was 
quite glad to rise next morning and see it; but 
others informed the captain and he said it could 
not be seen, so they did not try it, much to their 
after regret. The captain did not know it was 
visible, for he had always anchored near town 
where the near hills had shut off the cross; but 
where we were, it was distinctly in sight. I was 
glad once more to see it; all along for weeks after 
we had got a few hundreds of miles below Hong 
Kong we saw it every night, a true Latin cross 

— *** —not so fine a constellation as the Great 

* 

Bear, but very interesting and bright. 

On our way down, we stopped again a day at Luxor, 
and then at Ballianah, at night, to go next morning 
to Abydos. This was the last excursion of the trip ; 


BISHARIN WARRIORS 














A15YDOS. 


153 


we rode seven miles through the wheat fields to the 
desert’s edge, where lias been excavated the tine 
temple of Abydos. The preservation of the columns 
has been most remarkable and there is a wonderfully 
valuable stele (inscription) on the wall. I should 
have been very sorry to miss this place. Here we 
lunched, and after a rest of two and a half hours, 
we left our ship party and rode off twelve miles on 
donkeys to Girgeh, the upper end of the railroad, 
where we took the cars for Cairo. By so doing 
we saved three days, and as no new places were 
to be visited, we lost nothing but the steamer ride 
down the Nile. 

We arrived in Cairo next morning, the 29th 
of March, at seven o’clock, and spent live days 
there in looking over the new city and old Cairo. 
We went out to Heliopolis to see the Obelisk, 
which seems to be all that is left of the city of 
On, where Moses lived. On our way back we 
stopped to see the Virgin Mary Tree, which 
should be 1,900 years or more old, if the tradition 
was correct, and probably is fifty or sixty. 

We went to see the old Coptic church in old 
Cairo, alleged to be on the site where Mary and 
Joseph hid with the infant Savior. They take 
you in the cellar and show two small oblong spaces 
in the wall, say about five feet long by three and 


154 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


one-half high, quite an absurd supposition. We 
saw the Nilometer, the fine mosque of Mehemet 
Ali, the great Khedive, in the citadel. But the most 
interesting of all was the museum across the river at 
Ghizeh. Here are gathered a great wealth of old 
Egyptian relics. It contains 200 or more very old 
and valuable mummies, among them those of King 
Seti and Rameses II. and III., and many other 
monarchs from 3000 to 4700 years old. One could 
spend days here. We saw Brugsch Bey, who has 
it in charge, and who seems very much interested 
in his work. lie is in high estimation as an 
Egyptologist, and I am sure fills worthily the place 
of chief of antiquities and museums. 


JERUSALEM. 


155 


CHAPTER IX. 

On the morning of April 3 we set off for Port 
Said en route for Jerusalem, taking a little boat 
in the evening, and after a rather crowded passage 
arrived at Jaffa about eleven o’clock next morning. 
Our ride to Jerusalem in a railroad took away the 
poetry of the trip, but was more expeditious. At 
first we passed through pleasant country, the plains 
of Sharon where were green fields of wheat and 
fine groves of oranges, which, being in blossom, 
perfumed the air, and the grass was illuminated 
with flowers of varied colors, but after a little we 
came on the barren mountains of Judea and with 
little to interest. 

Jerusalem is in the midst of these rocky hills, and 
it seems strange the place was selected for the site 
of a city. We saw the usual sights; the sepulchre, 
mosque of Omar, the Pool of Siloam, etc. There 
was an enormous crowd of pilgrims there to attend 
Easter services; one could not move without being 
hustled about, and I was timid for fear of catching 
small-pox, more especially as a young lady from 
Lockport, New York, had caught it here a few 
weeks before and died at Damascus. 


156 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


As to the localities of historical events, I think 
them in the main unreliable. As to the Calvary 
and sepulchre, they are close together, and no 
mount at all; the Pool of Siloam may be genuine, 
but it is a dirty spring, and one must go down 
into a small cavern to see it. The Mount of 
Olives is genuine, so is the Valley of Jehosaphat 
and Brook Kedron. But one who believes much 
here has much faith, not to say credulity. On 
the Mount of Olives is a tall tower connected 
with a Russian church, from which may be had 
an excellent view of the Dead Sea and the 
Jordan, some fourteen miles away; the view is 
remarkable for clearness and distinctness. The 
Dead Sea is 3687 feet below Jerusalem and 1293 
feet below the Mediterranean Sea. We went to 
Bethlehem and had a view of the Latin and Greek 
church evening services in competition. The place 
is very interesting, and the ride to and from it 
very pleasant. I suppose this to be one of the 
most reliable localities in the number of them 
named in the Gospels. 

Not having time to take a tour further into 
the interior, we returned from here to Jaffa, 
and on the evening of April 7th sailed for 
Bevrout, where we arrived next morning, spend¬ 
ing the day in looking about the town, which has 


BEYROUT. 


157 

something like 100,000 inhabitants. We were very 
much pleased with the place; its location is 
charming, and we were told the climate was on the 
whole temperate and agreeable; it is made so in 
summer by the sea breezes and by the cool air 
from the snowy mountains of Lebanon, which 
tower up high, not very far off and which present 
a very beautiful sight. The sea view from most 
of the town is quite charming. It is here that 
our good Americans have founded a flourishing 
college. The late William E. Dodge, of New 
York, was especially liberal in giving money for 
the buildings. We went through some of the 
most important under the guidance of Professor 
Nicely; from his room on the third floor, we had 
a delightful view of sea and land. The college 
stands on quite an elevated position, so our sweep 
of vision was very extensive, reaching far out on 
the Mediterranean and away up the Lebanon range. 
We met the President, Mr. Bliss, who was very 
pleasant. I am sure the college is of great useful¬ 
ness; it has trained and is training many young 
men in American habits of thought and is sowing 
seed which, in time, will bear good fruit. It is 
said one of the great aids in the overthrow of the 
Turkish rule in Bulgaria was Robert College, in 
Constantinople, which is an institution wholly 


158 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


American, like this. Here at Beyrout a similar 
work is going on under charge of good men. The 
college is, I believe, independent of mission boards, 
and mainly self-sustaining. 

We passed on to Alexandretta, arriving there 
on the 10th, and from there we went to Mer- 
syna, where we saw a sample of Turkish 
rule. A fellow American landed to go to 
Tarsus for a visit to a college classmate; the 
young man might have got off without trouble 
by paying the custom man fifty cents, but he was 
not up to that, and they took all books and writing 
out of his trunks to keep until his return. The 
officers are generally for sale. Near here is the 
ancient city of Soli, destroyed in 79 B. C., but 
there remain twenty-eight fine Corinthian columns 
which have stood here 2000 and more years and 
seem likely to stand many more. 

We passed on, stopping at Rhodes and Chios, 
and finally arrived at Smyrna on the 13th. I 
was surprised to find this city so large in pop¬ 
ulation; there are 300,000 people there, and it 
seems quite flourishing. From a very high 
hill directly overlooking the town and some 
hundreds of feet above it, is a splendid view 
of the sea and country about. On this hill, in old 
times, was a strong fort and castle; its ruins now 


SMYRNA. 


151 ) 


alone remain. \Ve saw near here a small aqueduct 

built by the ancient Romans, and which is still 

carrying quite a stream of water to the city. It 

was the Saturday before Easter, and everybody 

seemed to have a lamb, gentle little animals, being 

led home for the sacrifice. On the following 

© 

morning the number of lamb skins to be seen was 
great. 

Having tried ships of almost all the various 
nations in our travels, we concluded to try a Greek 
one here for our voyage to Athens, and after a 
smooth and pleasant trip arrived at the Piraeus at 
two o’clock on the following day twenty-two hours 
out. On the trip we were somewhat disgusted 
with the rapid acquaintance made by a married 
American woman with a Turkish officer. She had 
never seen him before, yet in a few hours had got 
intimate enough to be walking arm in arm up and 
down the deck and singing to him. I cannot say 
whether it suited her husband or not. I was glad 
there were but few passengers to see her lack of 
good breeding. She came from a very great city 
in an adjoining State. 

tVe passed many islands long famed in story and 
song, and of which all the world has heard and read ; 
it brought back many recollections. It seemed 
strange to stand on the rocky summit of the 


160 


A TRIP AROUND T1IE WORLD. 


Acropolis, where the remains of the Parthenon 
still testify to former grandeur. Then, too, 
the Theseum Temple and the remains of the Tem¬ 
ple of Jupiter show what Athens must have been 
in its palmy days. 

We found here one of Mr. Cleveland’s suc¬ 
cesses, Professor Alexander, our Minister, an 
accomplished gentleman, who speaks ancient and 
modern Greek, I judge a much more suitable 
person for the place than his predecessor, from 
what I was told of the latter. So far as our 
experience went, we must say that all of our 
representatives abroad were very fit men for 
their positions. Mr. Mclver, Consul General 
at Yokohama, a very able lawyer; Mr. Hunt, at 
Hong Kong; Mr. Penfield, at Cairo; Mr. Madden, 
at Smyrna, and Professor Alexander, at Athens, 
were all the right men in their places, and do great 
credit to our country. 

We left Athens for Corinth, stopping at 
Eleusis to see the old temple and the lovely 
view from it, one of the most charming in 
Greece. At Corinth we took carriages for Aero 
Corinth, the citadel of the old city, which is on a 
hill 1886 feet above the sea. At its foot we took 
ponies, and on our way up had the good fortune 
to meet Miss Ruhamah Scidmore, author of a 


CORINTH. 


161 

book on Japan called Jinriksha Days, and another 
about Alaska; we afterward met her and her young 
lady companion at dinner, and with them on the 
following day went to Mycenae, Tiryns and Nau- 
plia, coming back to Corinth again, where they 
left for Constantinople, and we to the westward. 
We had been just behind them all through India. 
The view from the top of this hill was cele¬ 
brated in history, it commands so wide an extent 
of sea and land. Mountains towered around us; 
across the strait are Parnassus and Helicon; the 
Isthmus of Corinth and the ship canal only a 
few miles off, in full view, and the valleys below 
us were wonderfully distinct like a carpet, with their 
green vegetation occasionallv made bright with 
vividly red patches of poppies now in full blossom. 

It was very interesting at Mycena, where Schlie- 
niann excavated and found the treasures of Atreus 
and the memorials of the time of Agamemnon; a 
few miles away at the Ileraeon we stopped to see 
the excavations then being made for the American 
association, under direction of our American 
friend, Dr. Waldstein, who, strangely enough, is 
Professor of Archeology in Cambridge, England, 
instead of being at home in one of our great 
universities. He showed us some things just 
brought to light; this Ileraeon was a temple to 


162 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


Ilera, and it was here that before going to Troy 
Agamemnon swore the Greek chiefs to stand by 
him to the end. The temple was very large, and 
stood on a platform under a great hill. The hill, in 
lapse of time, had covered the ruins of the temple 
deep with earth. The ruins here were extensive; 
right across the plains, which spread out below us, 
was Argos, and to the left was the place most 
ancient of all, Tiryns, with its Cyclopean walls, 
which Schliemann also unearthed. 

We spent the night at Nauplia, a few miles only 
from Mycenae, and next morning took cars for 
Corinth and Patras, from which place on the follow¬ 
ing day we went to Olympia, the place where for 
1000 years were celebrated the games which all 
Greece attended, and which made, during their time, 
universal peace. It was curious to see the very 
stone on which the feet of the swift runners were 
placed at starting, and better yet in the beautiful 
museum the remains of the great works of art 
found there, among which and the most perfect is 
the Hermes of Praxiteles. The German professor, 
Curtius, made great excavations here, and the day 
before our visit, there was a great celebration on 
placing his bust in the museum. The temple, 
Treasuries, Stadion, etc., are in a great amphitheater, 
and the view, standing in front of the museum, is 


CORFU. 


1(53 

beautiful. One of the greatest attractions in 
Greece is the lovely scenery ; its mountains, plains, 
bays and seas unite with its clear atmosphere and 
historic recollections to make a visit very desirable 
and interesting. 

Our trip from Patras to Brindisi took us to 
Corfu, where we landed, and made the circuit 
of the town and suburbs. AVe passed the palace, 
but did not stop, but went through the King’s 
summer palace, two miles out, and found it 
very nice, but not very remarkable. There is here, 
also, the palace of the Empress of Austria, away up 
on a high hill, three or four miles off from the 
town, very plainly visible. It is in a very romantic 
situation, and commands a lovely view of the town 
or city of Corfu and of Epirus, opposite, with the 
sea in the immediate foreground below. Here she 
comes to spend the months when Austria does not 
interest her. Poor Queen, with her sad memories 
of Prince Rudolph, and the unfortunate taint 
always in her system of the insanity tendency of 
the Bavarian royal family, her lot is a hard one. 

After spending the forenoon here, we steamed 
away for Brindisi, taking with us King Leopold, 
of Belgium, who, I suppose, had been visiting 
royalty here. lie is a very stalwart specimen of a 
man, some six feet two to four inches high, and 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


164 

strong and vigorous-looking. I told Charles we 
would dine with a King, but he gave us the slip 
by dining in the captain’s little cabin. There was 
nothing remarkable in his manner. Just a very 
pleasant, gentlemanly carriage and appearance. 

We arrived at Brindisi atteno’clockin the even¬ 
ing, twenty-four hours out from Patras, and were 
obliged to remain two days, waiting for our steamer 
for Spain. There are some remains of the ancient 
Brundusium here, some old walls, and a very tine 
old column. This is now a very important place 
in the great route over land and sea to India, 
China, Australia, Japan, New Zealand. The 
European passengers take the steamers here, and 
those returning take the fast trains for England, 
France, etc., here also. 

On the second evening, almost on expected 
time, the great and tine Peninsular and Oriental 
steamer Paramatta came in from Australia, and 
we soon got on board. At first the room 
given us was not agreeable, but on appealing to 
the head steward, who acted also as purser, he 
gave us a nice room close to the cabin dining¬ 
room, for which we were very grateful; the fare 
was good, the ship steady, and the captain very 
civil. We shall always speak well of the Para¬ 
matta and these officers. We had two English 


MALTA. 


165 


acquaintances from the shore with us—Dr. Waller, 
a retired army officer, and the Rev. Dr. Blore, 
Canon of Canterbury Cathedral, we sat next to 
them at our meals and elsewhere; we got quite 
intimate, and Dr. Blore invited us to visit him at 
Canterbury, offering to “put us up” with him, 
but we did not find time to do so, but hope some 
future day we may be able to go there. 

We had a charming sail to Malta, arriving on the 
morning of the 28th, Sunday; as the ship coaled 
there, we had ample time to see the city of Valetta 
nicely. The most interesting thing after the cathe¬ 
dral is the hall, where the effigies of theold knights 
in their armor are exhibited, that is, many of those 
most noted, but alas! the governor is a strict Sab¬ 
batarian and would not let us in on Sunday. We 
had a pleasant trip to Gibraltar, arriving there 
May 1st, in the evening. 

We rose early to see the so-called galleries, 
which are caverns blasted into the rocks. There 
are two tiers of them and they extend two miles 

along in the side of the hills, with embrasures 

© 

occasionally to shoot cannon out of. They are 
very valuable for defense. 

We went to Algeciras, some fifteen miles 
across the water, and there took the cars for 
Granada, passing through an interesting conn- 


166 


A TRIP AROUND TIIE WORLD. 


try of valleys, hills and mountains, interspersed 
with groves of cork, oak and other trees, for 
a long time. We arrived at Granada in the 
evening, and had a long ride of two miles up 
to the Washington Irving Hotel, where we 
found everything agreeable. 

The next morning the weather was simply lovely ; 
then the scenery was so beautiful and grand, and 
although the Alhambra is not made of marble like 
the line Moslem buildings in India, yet for the style 
and the beauty of the patterns in which everything 
is done, it is very, very charming. Then, too, always 
from every part of it are beautiful views. The 
rich Vega spreads out below in front for miles and 
miles; hills are on each side of it, and behind 
rises the great Sierra Nevada range covered with 
snow. Then all about comes in conduits as old 
as the Moorish time the rippling water; it passes 
through the gardens and parks; it bursts out in 
sparkling jets, and fills many a fountain. The 
jets in the Generalife , which is a charming palace 
above the Alhambra, are very varied, numerous 
and beautiful. It is a fascinating place. 

The town, too, below has its allurements, among 
which are fine churches and the gypsies living inside 
the hills. We entered one of the houses in the rock. 
There were two living rooms and a bed room, and 





iip 

SfeHi!; 




REPOSING ROOM AFTER BATH, ALHAMBRA 
























(JIIAN ADA. 


lt>7 

another room for pigs, all living in company most 
harmoniously in the hill; and there are many 
such. Then, too, here are the remains of Ferdi¬ 
nand and Isabella in the royal chapel adjoining 
the cathedral. We spent two days here, and if 
time is abundant, one might stay with pleasure 
two weeks. 

The evening before we left there was a severe 
rain storm, and when we moved off on the train 
next morning, on looking back to the high moun¬ 
tains, we saw away upon the summits that snow had 
fallen instead of rain, for the snowy surface had 
much increased since the previous evening. Our 
route led us by Antiquerra and through a pleasant 
land of flowers of the most varied colors. I never 
saw wild ones more beautifully interspersed with the 
green meadows and grain. It almost seemed that 
the husbandman must have had an eye for the 
harmony of colors, and left in sowing his grain or 
grass such seeds as would render more lovely the 
landscape. 

AVe arrived at Seville in the afternoon and 
soon found our way to the great cathedral. It 
is second only to St. Peter’s in size. Its great 
bell tower was formerly the Giralda minaret, and 
is 250 feet in height. One ascends by walking up 
inclines. It is square and the pavement constantly 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


168 

rises. It is much easier than going by steps. 
The various altars are grand, as is the whole 
cathedral. We saw many superb paintings there, 
and among them the Christ and St. Anthony 
Adoring, by Murillo, from which the St. Anthony 
had been cut, brought to New York, and offered 
for sale to Mr. Schaus, who returned it to the 
cathedral, much to the joy of the whole people of 
Seville. Our Consul said they would have given Mr. 
Schaus an entertainment when he was there in honor 
of this return if he would have accepted it. The 
painting is superb, and the St. Anthony is replaced 
so as not to show except in one particular line of 
light. In the hospital of La Caridad and the 
museum are many superb paintings by Velasquez, 
Murillo and Ribera well worthy a long study. 

The Alcazar —Al Kosr , House of Caesar—is a 
most interesting building erected for a Spanish 
king by Moorish architects in Moorish style. It 
is, next to the Alhambra, the finest specimen of 
their architecture now extant. Besides the build¬ 
ing there are interesting gardens attached to it. 

Of course, we visited the famous cigar factory, 
where are employed five thousand girls and women 
manufacturing the popular article. It is very 
curious to see so many buzzing women at work. 
Some of them have their children there in their 



KOYAI, CHAPKI,, GRANADA. 

Tomb of Ferdinand and Isabella on left, and of Philip and Crazy Jane on right 






































































































SEVILLE. 


169 

cradles. They seem ready to chat with all comers, 
but as we knew no Spanish we were none the wiser 
for their talk; but they seemed disposed to have a 
little quiet fun out of us. This factory occupies a 
space 600 feet square, and its product is enormous. 

There is a great bull-fighting place here, and 
while we were here there was on Sunday a 
fight for benefit of the widows and children 
of the sailors lost on the Heine Regenta man- 
of-war, recently sunk in the Mediterranean. 
This is a seaport, although far inland. Ocean 
steamers and other sea-going craft come up the 
river Gaudelquiver, and quite a commerce is thus 
carried on. There seems to be much appearance 
of wealth and business, and the glimpses of the 
patios (open courts) of many houses, with their 
shrubs, fountains and flowers, were very pleasing. 
We found Seville very interesting indeed. 

From here we went to Cordova, which is princi¬ 
pally of interest for its mosque, now half spoiled 
by being turned into achurch. There were originally 
1,120 columns in it of various sorts of stone and 
marble, but the church ruined the effect by putting 
a choir right in the center, taking out some 200 of 
the pillars, and so destroying the continuity of the 
design. It is more remarkable for what it was 
than what it is. 


170 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


Next to Madrid, an all-night ride, and gladly 
did we find ourselves in the Hotel de Paris there. 
But I will not endeavor to describe this city, 
so well known. The gallery of paintings is 
one of the best in Europe. There are 8,000 
pictures here; Velasquez, Murillo and Ribera are 
paramount and in their glory. One could spend 
two weeks in the inspection of this gallery. We saw 
the palace, said to be one of the finest in Europe, 
but the most interesting place we visited after 
the paintings in the museum was the royal museum 
of Arms, “Armeria Real.” There is none any¬ 
where to compare with it. We were a little time 
after in the Tower of London, but it is immensely 
inferior to this; and I was assured by an English 
general, then with us at Madrid, that nowhere 
existed its equal for variety, antiquity, beauty and 
richness of design and workmanship. Besides, 
there are the associations full of interest, for 
many suits of armor here had belonged to royal 
persons and great soldiers. Besides, there are 
other curiosities, notably three golden Visigoth 
crowns. 

We took a carriage and, with two very inter¬ 
esting fellow-countrywomen from Boston, rode 
to the park one evening, passing up and down to 
see the turnouts and the fair Spanish ladies. We 


SPANISH SENATE. 


171 


saw some very fair ones, but I think if one desires 
to see most of the handsome subjects of Murillo’s 
pencil, they must be sought among the poor. 
We went one day to the Senate. There was 
the utmost order and good breeding. All were 
dressed in Prince Albert suits, and the body 
seemed highly respectable. No tobacco smoking 
or chewing; no one chews abroad anywhere. 

We visited the Escorial, that great pile without 
much architectural merit, and interesting more for 
the tombs of the royalties than anything else. 
It is an immense affair in a barren, mountainous 
country. 

From here we left, on the afternoon of the 
12th of May, for Bordeaux, where we arrived next 
morning at ten o’clock, and were hospitably enter¬ 
tained by our friends. We spent some eleven days 
in Paris, crossing over to London on the 26th ; and 
it is remarkable that the lovely weather we had 
always had on every sea was to still continue. The 
day before we crossed the channel it was rough, 
but for us it was calm and clear. 

Our London experience was as usual, very 
agreeable. We saw the Derby, which is worth 
seeing for the crowd. People go to bet and to 
see and be seen, and there is no place superior 
for either. 


172 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


And, finally, we took train for Southampton, 
and in an hour and a half walked off the cars 
across a dock seventy-five feet or so, and stepped 
on board the fine steamer Paris, where we found 
ourselves at home, with excellent food well served, 
and in some hours less than seven days were in the 
Fifth Avenue Hotel, having made our long journey 
with serene weather, calm seas and good health 
always. We were glad our last voyage was on an 
American ship, and trust that this line is but the 
beffinninff of a £reat fleet that shall illuminate 
every sea and harbor with the starry flag of our 
country. 

X And now that the long journey is over, and the 
constantly recurring series of delightful views 
which were wont to appear each day come no more, 
and that there is no more change of scene, but that 
I am again at home in the usual routine of life, 
each day being a repetition of the preceding, I 
recur with never-ending pleasure to the past, and 
the wonders of the world that 1 have seen. I 
seem sometimes, in the visions of the night or in 
day-dreams, to see passing before me in a misty 
light a panorama, in which old world scenes and 
histories come in review. Again, I see the smiling 
and friendly people of Nippon in their kimenos 
and broad hats, the patient and laborious workers, 


RETROSPECT. 


173 


their gifted and ingenious artisans, the women in 
their beautiful brocades of such lovely patterns. 
I see the shrines and tombs of Nikko, Shiba and 
Kyoto, and the golden dolphins of Nagoya castle, 
and the vast multitude who throng the busy streets 
of the great cities. Then come the almond-eyed 
Chinamen, treading so sofrlv in their slippers that 
there is no warning of their approach or presence, 
their pagodas, junks, limping women, grotesque 
idols and narrow streets go by. Then the dark¬ 
eyed Malay, with his suspicious and dangerous 
face, which alarms one. 

Now from the dark groves of palms, from cin¬ 
namon trees and flowering shrubs into the light 
come the Cingalese, who have kept the faith of 
l»uddha so long and well. Then, crowding on, pass 
the wonderful hordes of India of all times, religions 
and varying dress, with brilliant suggestions of 
color and fanciful adornment. I see their great 
men of the past, the kings who fought a thousand 
years ago and since, with great armies, who led 
their men to the held with elephants and camels. 

I see Clive going out to the battle of Plassy with 
3,000 men to tight 68,000; and then the long line 
of Englishmen who have ruled over India’s fertile 
plains. Her great cities, tilled with architectural 
wonders, hie slowly by. 1 see the natives sitting 


174 


A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 


under the pepul tree, relating their never-ending 
tales, or lying lazily in the winter sun; the grand 
Himalayas, with their eternal snows, pass by; the 
Ghauts come after and then comes the sea, and 
India has passed. 

Bombay and the Arabian Sea recede from view, 
and the land of Pharaoh, old Egypt, with Isis, 
Osiris, Anubis and the rest of that crew, are before 
me. I seem to see the wonderful days when 
Joseph ruled them. I hear the hammers of the 
Pyramid builders and see the stately columns 
rising, which for so many cycles of centuries have 
adorned the delta. I hear the tramp of the ancient 
kings, with their royal retinues, going out to 
battle; the thousands of horse that went forth 
from the 100 gates of old Thebes. I see the Rameses, 
Ptolemies and all the varied lines of monarchs, 
closing with fair Cleopatra shedding her radiant 
beauty on the scene. Then comes Israel’s race; 
Abraham, the father of all; Moses, the great 
law-giver, with his grand mien and shining visage, 
bearing the Sinaitic tablets; and then the long 
line of kings who reigned on Salem’s rocky 
heights. Then pass the Roman emperors, who 
ruled thereafter, and I see the hallowed form of 
the Prince of Peace, most glorious of all the sons 
of men, who lighted up the world with a new 


RETROSPECT. 


175 


charm, a liglit never to he extinguished. Then 
comes the Arab and Turkish crowd, with Mahomet 
at head; an unlovely race, the scourge of God 
or of the devil to man, who make life miserable 
to all but themselves, and leave a trail of blood 
and wailing sorrowful people behind them as 
they pass. Hut now comes in the long shining 
procession, Athens. Here are the Parthenon 
and Theseum; Pentelicon looms above us, and 
Hymettus honey comes from the flowers on its 
sides. Marathon is again the battle ground• the 
Eleusis temple is once more the scene of solemn 
mysteries; Corinth, with its Acropolis and Parnas¬ 
sus opposite; Mycena, Tiryns, Argos and Olympia 
appear before me. I see the great games once 
more. Again start out the swift runners and the 
prancing steeds, and the laurel crown, with great 
acclaim, is given to the victor. I sec Demos¬ 
thenes, with his matchless eloquence, winning the 
crown, and stand in admiration while Praxiteles 
brings forth from the marble block his world- 
renowned Hermes. But Greece fades away from 
sight, and now come the valorous Christian soldier 
Knights of Malta, battling for their faith and life 
against the infidel. What stalwart men and how 
well they earned a high place in the book of 
fame and life! 


17(5 A TKIF AROUND THE WOULD. 

But dow comes a great rock, Gibraltar, named 
for Gib-el-Taric, the one-eyed Moorish chief, who 
landed at Tarifa with great hordes of his followers 
from Africa, and commenced the conquest of Spain. 
I see the proud Spanish and Moorish kings go by 
with lance in air, on Arabian steeds, all bright with 
armor of steel, going forth to battle. I see the 
court of the last Moor, Boabdil, in the lovely 
Alhambra, with the fertile plains spreading wide 
before him, containing more than two millions of 
people, rich in manufactures, agriculture and 
arts. But here comes Ferdinand and lovely 
Isabella to receive the last castle and the last sigh 
of the Moor, and then their line of narrow¬ 
minded men, who ruled Spain so roughly, and who 
made the gloomy Escorial for a palace and tomb. 
Among them passes Philip, who died there a dis¬ 
tressing and terrible death, at the last, fearing that 
persecution to the death was not, after all, pleasing 
to God. Then the vine-clad hills and plains of 
France come joyously by with smiling face and 
cheery people. Then we see London’s Tower, 
and St. Paul’s and Westminster Abbey, with all 
England’s green landscape; and with the scene 
comes before us, too, her glorious past, with the 
great crowd of brave and noble men who by word 
and deed have adorned their country’s history. 


THE END. 


177 


And then the whole ends with the broad ocean and 
America, and my dream is over. Once more I am 
at home, but the pleasant memory still remains 
and will do so forever. 






























• ♦ 


► «p 

* T. 

k “ 


« U - 0 , 1 ' r\ 

i 1 '** G> .$> o ° * ° ♦ v <f». 

G *ap/T?7?b * o j **> 


4 °, 


m y*' 





> « 5 °^ 

♦ ^ o 

V °^ *«To* , 0 ' 


\/ V'*^v J *#■ *..i 



i •'?.?•* y V xw' G * x •:£?.• A * * '-: 

< £ 6 0 * * ^ qV fc i I * . *P 0 <£ 0 N 9 

* .. A V C ♦V/yT^b - ' ° • ‘U^xtr *£ 



■a^ 

# *" "’ ^ V‘'"’/.--v '<'• 

•; ^ /' .'^ Wa% *■ 

< V«* _, q c, vT* 

'*>?'%• sA#§ * X ^ °„ 
'••• ■£>',. %, . & <,• , *‘T:\*' .<? % ' 

•f ,<y .-A^*. = 0 ** .«■; \ ,.o* "*b. 





* •£ ^ <* 0 S u * 7 \ ► * -4 CL 

v s • • ^ a 0 01 ' Ay °^i 0 ® N o -, 

^ *!sr v v* ^ x o v » v • ^ s«*, vV^ 

’ ***\ V !' 0 $- :® W.- 

, K"S’ < ^ ‘A • «K»/li;'\$' ♦ ' J A> J t// \ :■ * . v»' *$» 

"o , . « .A. >* _vfc ^ ^ 



'•** A^' °L. 0 °*>* A <. - 

c c >' JALr, j . 4 .< • * 5 ^ 

o' :£mb?- -o / ?; ' 




* «> ^ ’.Wf,* .A'" 5 t> ' “ e*.«^ 

A v ^ •* ^< v <> *G c) m 

C° °o o" '“ * 

* r * >jrr '^~ 1 ^ • _rW(v - «• *r* f*, . * _ />^. * T 






» jy-’V d 9 * > 

.* Q o ^ *:. ■ v o 0 ? 

A° ^ / o * 0 o ^ Q .’ 

♦Wa* ^ ^ * 


•***■■ %/ :«§• X, 

* ^ -Var^,* ^ x •>. ^ 


X_ .-A^ ^ n’ .<•'•- X a' „.„ x. 



n M a 



■ i > C. «•••* o* o *o.\* V -A *7^4’ * 

f \ "• c o* .•• .. % J> ».. * 0 * 


**o< 

m * * 22 w&* y J * 

fc "’■ ? ,.., % **•* f u ,. 

y. % a* .*-* 

ic. 'V *.v^w*' •Jrf, J, vvQ «* aV" *JG 




A 

’: ’bv^ : 

>° •v 

v s v ••;;'» ^ .o- .**, 

• V A* 

;* a.v % %\*w v X 

v r >_> - • • * <0 ^ '»•»'' A ^ '■’/,, »* fj 

^ O®^ 0 * 0 k • *■ ' # 4 ’^b < $ o°" *♦ 

■*:«&• :M&;. 








I %/ -g*?& sy 
f yx w.y’x w yv •• 


• 'Pv v * 

J O I V 




• • • °* V 



r A V 

O *« . . < A > ♦ .'“^’■" t /' 

\f, .V '> * •• * «y 

*<>••♦ 0 * 

• r fV 

«-** ?f/ r .-A : ^ 0 « ; 

• a A '& r //n*+ 
c\ J 


V^''/ ■< 

v .•— 

<L O?" . -v % *f> 

a * ■'/hA • ^ <$> 

w 

A'*'* » : V ' i * o>-^ - 

/A ^ ' -\ V 4 



A V 

• 1 * •- > 



£ ft «- • » <<> 

*fev* ■‘o < -j 

V*-‘V ... ^ 

V . * .vw'* 
































































